For years, Scott Bryan ran the disciplined kitchen at Veritas, producing some of the city’s most delicious food and earning three stars from the New York Times. In her review, Ruth Reichl praised Bryan’s simple cooking but observed, “at Veritas, the wine is more important than the food.” In some ways, his food never received the credit it was due since it was always cast in a supporting role to the wine cellar. When Chef Bryan left New York in 2007 to guest-chef for three months at a restaurant called 2941 near Washington D.C., it was with little fanfare. Well Bryan has quietly returned to New York—hopefully for good—as the executive chef at Apiary on 3rd Avenue between 10th and 11th Streets in the East Village. It’s a surprising career move for Bryan, a humble operation seemingly below a chef of his ilk. But his work here shows his versatility and sensitivity to the changing climate for restaurants. He and Apiary’s managing partner Jenny Moon understand that the days of cigar smoking and guzzling rare Bordeaux are behind us (at least for the moment). Apiary is the poor man’s Veritas.
Though nowhere near the gargantuan collection of Chef Bryan’s former employer, Apiary still has an affinity for wine. It offers almost twenty wines by the glass including a flight of three “blind-tasted” wines for $15. Guess the wines correctly and you’ll receive a bonus pour on the house! Monday is “no-corkage” night at Apiary and it seems to have gained traction with oenophiles and industry types. The restaurant’s gregarious beverage director, Brett Feore, will be happy to introduce you to one of his seasonal specialty cocktails like the “Gin ‘N Juice” (gin, Aperol, and blood orange juice). He may even lay his Christopher Walken impersonation on you as he did while decanting the 1998 Smith Haut-Lafitte we brought on a recent visit. Brett looks more hit man than wine-guy.
Once you get the wine out of the way you can turn your attention to Apiary’s simple menu. The restaurant offers a $35 prix-fixe menu Sunday through Thursday but with limited options. Of the ten or so a la carte appetizers, a chunk of braised pork belly served on a pedestal of lentils with a velvety poached egg and shaved pecorino stood out as did an ample slice of raw hamachi with fresh hearts of palm and avocado.
The Chatham Cod captured most of the attention come entrée time. It’s beautifully presented with painterly swirls evocative of a French impressionist’s oil painting in fall. The fish is pan-seared and laid into a bouillabaisse broth with fennel puree, then topped with a medusa’s head of squiggly calamari and a rich aioli. It was one of the most complete fish dishes I’ve tasted in a long time. A beautifully rendered, rare Duck Breast was delicious also, sliced in thick strips over braised cabbage with white turnips and green peppercorns. Both dishes were so well seasoned, and every bite you take reminds you of how damn good it is.
If you have any wine left or still haven’t opened one of your B.Y.O’s it would be wise to forgo desert and finish with a cheese plate accompanied by a selection of artisanal honeys. After all, an apiary is a place where bees are kept. It shouldn’t be much longer before people start hearing the buzz.
—Warren Peace Senior Editor
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
Working in the restaurant industry you are often on your feet anywhere from 8-10 hours a day. Foot problems are commonplace among waiters. If you're experiencing restaurant-induced foot pain or just can't get traction as you rush to turn your tables, we recommend "Shoes For Crews," a brand of non-slip footwear designed especially for restaurant/hospitality professionals. The styles offered by S.F.C. vary. They carry athletic shoes, pumps, professionals, clogs, and steel-toed boots. Their prices are reasonable, ranging from $27-$77.
A new pair of work shoes is always a worthwhile investment for anyone in the industry, and it's not worth getting spaghetti sauce on your Pradas.
It's been a tough week, with restaurant week turning into restaurant "month",so we decided to put a smile on your face with a little shenanigans form youtube.Enjoy.....
This year, Chinese New Year, falls on Feb 14th (valentine’s day), where they will be ringing in the year of the Tiger.
What is Chinese New Year, you ask? well, it’s like Christmas to the west, where spending time with family, gift giving and all important food festival. Unlike our western new year, celebrations aren’t tightly focused on one date
Chinese New Year is also known as the spring festival, because this marks the beginning of the spring, the rebirth of the earth, and the holiday is celebrated over a two-week period.
This year in NYC, the parade and celebrations will be held at,
Roosevelt park on 2/14/2010 for the
Firecracker show, from 11:30 to 3; 30 pm
(Btw Forsyth and Chrystie st)
Lion and dragon performance 1:00pm to 2:30 pm
(Mott & Hester st)
Some of our favorite restaurants to dine and celebrate the New Year are, Joe’s Shanghai Pecking Duck House
17 Wo hop
House of vegetarian.
One thing for sure, team shift drink will be in china town on the 14th, devouring all that is Chinese from fake Rolex watches, illegal massage parlors to cold Chinese moonshine.
Happy Dumplings.
Everyone has an opinion about what constitutes good service. A recent article published in the New York Times hailed “100 Things Restaurant Staffers Should Never Do.” In the hospitality industry, we are under constant scrutiny often by people who have no business evaluating our competence. We have rigid rules we must live by in hospitality while next to nothing is expected of those we serve. So, why has no one ever considered a handbook for those who dine out? Isn’t there a certain level of decorum and respect those of us who work in restaurants should be entitled to? We think there is, and we offer this list of Holy Commandments to live by whenever you dine out. If you follow our guidelines below, you will get better service. Most likely better than you deserve. God speed. (click read more to see list)
1) Thou shalt not beckon us with any broad hand gestures like you are hailing a cab or training a dog. Make eye contact and ideally preface your simple requests with “please” or “when you have a moment.”
2) Thou shalt not ask us to describe something on the menu, interrupt with stupid questions, and expect us to continue our description when you’re done.
3) Thou shalt not ask for recommendations, proceed to order dishes we didn’t suggest then act surprised when you’re disappointed with what you’ve ordered.
4) Thou shalt not specify how much ice you like in your water. It sets a bad tone and tells your server that you are high maintenance. Save the specifications for your martini.
5) Thou shat not ask for “Bloomberg Water” or tap water in conjunction with the name of any local politicians or your municipal water commissioner. Keep your commentary on the quality of your city’s water at a minimum. (i.e. [Insert city] has the best water in the world!)
6) Thou shalt not ask if we have blue cheese olives. We don’t, and we’re not making them for you even if we happen to have blue cheese and olives.
7) Thou shalt not give your server a printed card that explains how you like your martini or any other drink.
8) Thou shalt not ask for vodka served in a wine glass. We’re not going to pour you more just because it’s a larger glass. If you have a specific glass you’d like your drink poured in, stay home and make one for yourself.
9) Thou shalt not ask for black napkins. It’s pretentious. If we have them, we’ll offer when we see a dark outfit. If not, use white and carry a lint roller.
10) Thou shalt not call us over to the table to ask us if the dish you ordered is supposed to be improperly cooked. (ie. Is the octopus supposed to be burnt like this?). Just say you’re unhappy with it, and we’ll bring you something else.
11) Thou shalt not get passive-aggressive and tell us you’re fine when you’re unhappy with your food. If you’re disappointed with a dish, send it back. But don’t use it as an excuse to leave a deficient tip.
12) Thou shalt not strand your server while you pore over menu selections. If you can’t decide, kindly ask your server for more time. Don’t expect us to wait there, while the rest of our station goes down in flames.
13) Thou shalt not ask us to describe a dish that we’ve just finished describing to someone else at the table, the one that you didn’t hear because you were texting on your Blackberry.
14) Thou shalt not disturb your server while he is engaged with another table. If you touch us while we’re talking to another table, we will smack you down.
15) Thou shalt not say you’re allergic to something if you’re not. If garlic gives you gas, for example, this does not qualify as a food allergy.
16) Thou shalt not ask us to bring you toothpicks.
17) Thou shalt not, for the love of God, ask us for said toothpicks then start picking your teeth at the table.
18) Thou shalt not claim you’re a good tipper when you make a special request. Anyone who claims to tip well is usually an average tipper. Like a man who says he has a big penis.
19) Thou shalt not bring bottled water, Snapple, or any other beverage or pre-packaged food item from another vendor into the restaurant and leave it on the table.
20) Thou shalt not order your meat cooked in between temperatures. There is no such thing as Medium-to-Medium-Rare to a chef in the shits.
21) Thou shalt not order your meat cooked in colors. Pink should be referred to as Medium. Red is rare or medium rare. Black-and-blue is the only exception.
22) Thou shalt not say “We haven’t even looked” more than ten minutes after you’ve been presented the menu. We will continue to pester you until you’ve ordered—it’s our job—so you might as well get it over with.
23) Thou shalt never threaten to take up a table longer than a reasonable amount of time allotted for the turn. We understand you haven’t seen each other for fifteen years and everyone’s celebrating their birthday, but threatening to camp will just provoke your server into moving you through your meal more quickly.
24) Thou shalt not point to your wine glass to indicate you’d like us to pour. Kindly ask. A please and a thank you will go a long way toward more attentive service.
25) Thou shalt not request a dessert menu until we’ve cleared you of your mains. Never ask for dessert while we’re in the process of clearing. We understand the natural progression of a meal.
26) Thou shalt not hand us plates while we have others in our hands unless we ask for your assistance.
27) Thou shalt not make multiple requests at once. (i.e. Can we have some lemon? Oh..and is it possible you could bring us some of those olives we saw at the bar? And some bread whenever you have a chance. We’re starving.)
28) Thou shalt not order a Diet Coke while drinking an expensive bottle of wine. Don’t be a douche. If you need a soft drink, hit the 7-11 on the ride home.
29) Thou shalt not ask us to promise it’s decafe. It is. And even if it isn’t, your threat to call us at 3 AM isn’t scary because we’ll still be wide-awake getting drunk at the bar after our shift.
30) Thou shalt not order hot water with lemon.
31) Thou shalt not order hot water with lemon and refer to it as a “Canarino” or any other name that makes it sound anything other than what it is: Free, and a colossal waste of our time.
32) Thou shalt not order hot water with lemon and bust out your own tea bag.
33) Thou shalt not ask us to make separate checks. Leave multiple credit cards, and we’ll be happy to divide the check into specific amounts.
34) Thou shalt not split wine off the check to flout tipping. If you split a wine off, leave an appropriate tip.
35) Thou shalt not steal our pens from the check presenter after you sign the bill. We buy those and your meager tip will probably not leave us with enough discretionary income to replace them.
-Warren Peace Senior Editor
What did we miss? Leave any suggested amendments in the comments section below.
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
Shiftdrink to the rescue!!!! That’s right shiftdrink is looking after those who take care of others. As we know all hospitality people work during those “happy hour” times and when it’s our turn to have a beverage of choice its full price. Those days are over. Shiftdrink has been in touch with a couple of bars/restaurants and will be starting our own discounts for our members.
Our first lounge on board is Bongo, 299 10th Ave (27th/28th) will be offering a 20% off on drinks on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday until they close each night. Just mention Shiftdrink when you order your first drink. This is just the beginning, we at shiftdrink hope to bring you bars giving the shiftdrink special all over Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens.
If you are a Bar/Restaurant send us an email and we will get in touch with you and set up the discount and add you to our expanding list. Here’s to the people that matter the most, Cheers!
With Mariah Carey being the latest celebrity to endorse an alcoholic beverage, Angel Champagne, one has to wonder, does the world really need this? Out of morbid curiosity, we visited the Angel Champagne website, and, of course, there were no tasting notes available, only video clips of rappers drinking Angel’s bubbly in its signature platinum. After a little more research, we discovered that back in 2006, Mariah invested in Mendocino County and bottled her own Mariah zinfandel. Angel Champagne was born 12 yrs ago, and it’s blended and cellared in Reims France and will be made available later this year to the most discerning of individuals (douchebags). All we can say is best of luck with that. One thing for sure is the champagne is way overpriced; you might shriek like Mariah when you get the bill. We can only sit and wonder what's next... Timber Lakes Cab? Mad Donna Shiraz? Rhianna Rosso? We hope this is a trend that doesn't continue.
No one knows better where to find good drinks and cool bars than the people who work in them. So, the staff at Shiftdrink has scoured the city to bring you the finest cocktails and inside information on the staff behind the scenes at the city’s hottest venues. Introducing: The Drink List. For this week’s installment, we visited two bars on the Lower East Side that are serious about mixology. Here is what we drank:
SHE LOVES MEI...SHE LOVES MEI NOT
In our recent visit to The Summit, a new bar on Avenue C, we sampled a drink with one the longest names we've ever come across, the "She Loves Mei, She Loves Mei Not." It's an exotic blend of Peruvian Pisco, Szechuan peppercorn-infused Agave syrup, egg white, lemon, and muddled edible Ecuadorian rose petals. You'll find yourself mezmerized as you watch the bartender carefully strain each of his drinks from a shaker into a hand-held colander, usually over a perfectly chiseled square cube of ice.
The precision of the drinks is reflected in the sleek, modern interior with its glossy black marble surfaces and understated lighting. It's like being inside a giant Prada bag. The mellow soundtrack sends out a vibe that they value comfort over trendiness, which is definitely a selling point if you're on a date with someone you are trying to impress or you are just looking for a place for good convo with little distraction.
THE DESERT ROSE
At Yerba Buena on Avenue A, Barman Artemio Vasquez has designed an exotic list of latin-themed cocktails that politely tips its sombrero to the classics. It's rare to find a bar where Sidecars and Aviations share the stage with Caiparinhas and Pisco Sours and they all taste right. That's because there's discipline behind the bar, but they will surprise you too. We loved the subtle tea flavor of the "Boludo Yerba Mate," made with Pisco infused with Yerba Mate, grapefruit and lime cordials, and fresh lemon. It tasted like a Pisco Sour with a little gaucho swagger. Pictured here is the "Desert Rose," as pretty as a Santa Fe sunset, a voluptuous blend of rose-infused Plymouth Gin, prickly-pear puree, and lemon juice. The interior of Yerba Buena is very charming, like a lived-in Cuban social club, and the staff is warm and courteous which goes a long way in creating the neighborhood feel that helped them expand into the West Village and Midtown. I regret not sampling some of the food by Chef Julian Medina whose Nuevo Latino kitchen has a great reputation. As a dedicated Shiftdrinker, though, you know our motto: "Come for the drinks, stay for the drinks."
YERBA BUENA
23 Avenue A
(212) 529-2919 www.ybnyc.com
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
This year winter restaurant week starts on the 25th of January through February 7th with a roster of over 260 participating restaurants. Prices are $24.07 for lunch and $35 for dinner. One thing's for sure, we will work more doubles but with this economy we can't complain. A little boost in reservations will go a long way. This year there will even be a restaurant week soup truck offering an extensive soup menu from 20 of the tastiest winter restaurant week participants. To find location of the truck, follow @nycgo on twitter for updates.
Putting your resume together is no easy task. For most people, putting their experience into marketable terms can be a stumbling block filled with anxiety and procrastination. Restaurant resumes can be even more stressful since work experience is less easily described as with conventional jobs. Early in your restaurant career, you may worry that you don’t have enough experience to interest potential employers and your resume might expose your weakness rather than showcase your strength. Even if you are comfortable in your current job situation you should always have a resume prepared because, as you now, all it takes is a new chef or manager to turn your comfort into agony. Not to worry, though, we talked to our peers in management and have some ideas on how you can keep your resume freshly starched like your work shirt:
• Think Like A Manager:
Ask yourself, what qualities would you be looking for in a potential employee?
1. Dependable
2. Well-organized
3. Quick learner
4. Personable
5. Skilled at oral & written communications
• Survey Your Experience
At this time think about past or present activities that you have been involved in, as well as employment that could best demonstrate your traits.
1. Having a high GPA, for example, might indicate to potential employers that you are a fast learner and apply your self diligently.
2. Participating in sports demonstrates you are a team player.
3. Taking extra courses shows a desire to improve one’s self.
• Package Your Information
Do not experiment with new fonts/formats or creative methods, now that you know what you have to offer, arrange your information within these categories.
1. Identity (name, address, e-mail, telephone number)
2. Objective (your immediate goal)
3. Education
4. Related course work
5. Experience
6. Activities and special interests
• “B.A.P.C.”
Your resume should always be:
1. Brief (one page is long enough)
2. Accurate (Error free, attention to detail)
3. Proud (use action verbs to stress your accomplishments)
4. Conservative (use quality paper in white or off white)
How does a round trip ticket to Chile, hotel accommodation and $500 spending money sound? Well, too good to be true. Xplorador wines out of Chile are holding a contest that sends you to their wine country, where one lucky contestant will be fortunate to participate in their 2010 harvest.
Located just between the Andres range and the Pacific Ocean, Xplorador Wines are fresh, fruit forward and delicious.
The winery received 97 pts from Robert Parker, for their 03 Carmenere, and for 13 yrs in a row American wine & Spirit named them winery of the year.
An Alcohol substitute that mimics the buzz from alcohol without leading to drunkenness and hangover is being developed by scientist at the Imperial College in London. The man behind the research team is Dr David Nutt (ok this is really serious!), a controversial professor who made statements claiming cannabis and ecstasy are less harmful than alcohol. The main ingredient in the alcohol substitute, or Synthenol, is Valium, which works to relax the brain, unlike natural alcohol which affects the brain function that alters mood and areas that control addiction. Synthenol will come with an antidote that will immediately stop the euphoria, allowing one to operate machinery or return back to work after consumption.
Scientists only need two things to begin developing Synthenol, government backing and an investor to front the money. Snythenol might be worth it- what could be better than controlled intoxication without the nasty side effects?
In the early morning hours Saturday, December 19th, our dear friend and colleague, Jed McGiffin, was hit by a sanitation truck on his way home after his shift at Babbo. As a result of the critical injuries he sustained in the accident, he faces a long recovery and rehabilitation process. Jed's employer, the Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group, is hosting a benefit for Jed and his family Monday, January 4th at Otto Ristorante and Enoteca. The event begins at 9 P.M. with a suggested $50 donation at the door. Snacks, beer, and wine will be served and all proceeds will go directly to the Jed Neon Fund. If you cannot attend the event you may also make a donation via Paypal. Read more for details on making a contribution.
Gifts to the Jed Neon Fund are considered "non-taxable financial gifts"
The highest grossing restaurant, Tavern on the green, is finally singing it’s last meal. This is a restaurant that was capable of putting out over 700,000 meals, and bring in over 38 million in sales annually. But even with these fancy numbers and many beautiful chandeliers, Tavern on the green could not stay out of bankruptcy court. With the court hearing scheduled for some time in a few weeks, the big question is, who will now fill the enormous void left and take over as the new tourist trap for NYC? We have a few ideas, do you?
2009 has been a year where hospitality professionals have increasingly taken a stand and sued their employers over wages and tips. As the practice gets even more popular, thanks to law firms like Otten & Golden LLP, let’s hope that in 2010 owners and their management team will rethink their strategy and pay fair wages to their hard working employees.
The latest scandal is over at Chipriani restaurant group; needless to say 2009 was quite a bumpy year for the Family.
Other restaurants hit with lawsuits are
Shelly NYC/ Fireman Group
Bobby Flay Restaurants
Strip House
Mama Mexico restaurant
230 fifth.
We can't imagine anything better than a porky chili dog at 3 A.M. after a tough shift and a long night pounding jager bombs. But the east village mainstay, Crif Dogs, has more than just that to soak up all the bottom-shelf booze in your gullet. You can have hot dogs wrapped in bacon, shmeared with cream cheese, topped with fried eggs, sour cream or melted cheddar. You can even customize your own crif dog. If you decide you need to drink more, hit the phone booth behind you which is a secret entryway into P.D.T. (Please Don't Tell), the adjacent speakeasy owned by Crifs. Just pick up the phone and they might let you in. Be careful though, they're veeery serious about mixology in there, maybe a little too serious? We decided that bacon-infused whiskey crosses the line (besides the fact that it tastes like ass juice). Plus, after three greasy dogs, a pork-infused cocktail with maple syrup in it doesn't exactly hit the proverbial spot. (W.P.)
CRIF DOGS
113 St. Marks
(212) 614-2728
Hours: Sun-Thu 12pm-2am, Fri-Sat 12pm-4am
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team Shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…(All sources of information are kept confidential.)
This week we ventured to Stanton Social, owned by Peter Kane, Cris Santos, & Rich Wolf, and this is what we found. IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
Not usually. WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
Mostly actors, very few lifers. HOW IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
Usually pretty bad
HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Reasonable. WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
5PM- 3AM weekdays, 11AM - 3AM Saturday, 11AM - 2AM Sunday,
Avg. shift about 7-8 hours. HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
We only do brunch on weekends, so the most you will ever do is two a month. NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK?
A very good crew to work with. The clientele can be exasperating. IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
Yes/ yes. WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE?
Pooled house. Waiters 60 %, Runners/Bussers 17%, each bar 6% of waiter tips. ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Cash. IS TAKE HOME CASH EXCELLENT, GOOD, OK OR CRAPY?
Good for the most part. IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
No. IS INSURANCE PROVIDED?
No. DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
Oh yes.
That’s all for now, tune in next week for an all new INSIDE SCOOP.
All of us have our favorite watering hole for winding down after a shift. It’s usually a place where you order a simple drink like a whiskey rocks or fizzy draft beer and the guy pouring the drinks is just about as excited to make it for you as he is when he’s cleaning up some poor NYU student’s puke just outside the bathroom door. Maybe it’s just me, but sometimes after a long night of giving other people the sweet treatment or that perfect dining experience, I really enjoy when someone else wants to give me exactly what I’m craving. Some nights that just might be an Irish whiskey with ice. Other nights it could be an effervescent gin drink made with strawberries and mint scented with fresh vanilla bean, and there is only one place I know I can get that until 4 A.M. (and food!) and that’s Ward III on Reade Street in Tribeca.
The three owners make each visit to this bar unique: Kenny, the Irish jock who grew up in bars and takes his whiskey with his muscle milk; Abdul, a fast and flamboyant Moroccan who plays the rings on his fingers to signify his mood; and Michael, papa bear, who brings in his sweet baby Eveline for everyone to ogle and to make the place feel even more homey than it already does. They are an unlikely trio, but to put it simply, Michael explains, “We were bartenders with and around each other for many years. When it came time to open our own place we looked around and tried to find the people we knew the best and trusted the most and liked what they did the most, so we gravitated towards each other.”
In other words, ordering a Manhattan from each of these guys is going to be a different experience. It’s not about making consistent drinks. Their rule is to make good drinks, yes, but even the specialty cocktails are going to come out tasting completely different depending on who you order from. “When you’re making a cocktail, you’re not making a drink. You’re reading a person,” says Michael. “You take all the info you can about them and make a cocktail just for them. It has everything to do with the presentation of the cocktail, with the person’s mood, their day, my day, all that soup makes the drink.” There are plenty of ingredients to draw from. Over 200 liquors arranged on three antique Singer sewing machines, little heirloom glass bottles atop the beer taps filled with rose water, cassis de Bordeaux, Crème de Mur (blackberry liqueur), and a garden of fruits and herbs growing on the bar, all to satisfy the “Bespoke Cocktail” List, where they custom design cocktails to order.
This is a bartender’s bar. Abdul has been bartending in Tribeca for fifteen years, Michael and Kenny each ten. They know and love the community and encourage “fellow travelers” to reveal themselves so they can take advantage of special industry pricing. You will find this invitation along with many other industry-friendly policies under the “House Rules” section of the menu. My favorite is rule number 2: “Don’t be creepy.” A rule I know all you ladies can appreciate. So, everyone can enjoy their bespoke cocktail, bacon-wrapped dates or Moroccan chicken pot pie, the good music, good people, all without that crazy, way-too-drunk NYU guy puking near the bathroom door.
Finding a good bar and, even better, a great bartender is no easy task, but at Shiftdrink we are committed to exploring the city in search of “Nirvana,” leaving no bar untouched and hopefully along the way making new friends. This week we sat down with Tom Flood, his friends call him "Tommy", bartender at Papillon and a true veteran in the game, please be advised, come correct or dont come at all.
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE BUSINESS?
I HAVE BEEN IN THE BUSINESS FOR OVER 20 YRS. ST PATRICK’S DAY 2009 WAS MY 20TH ANNIVERSARY.
ARE YOU A PRODUCT OF BARTENDING SCHOOL OR EXPERINCE?
EXPERIENCE. I DON’T BELIEVE IN BARTENDING SCHOOLS.
BIGGEST PET PEEVE BEHIND THE BAR?
GUEST ASKING TO TASTE ALL WINES BY THE GLASS, NOT LIKING ANY OF THEM AND SWITCHING TO A COCKTAIL AND ASKING FOR YOUR SUGGESTION.
DO YOU HAVE A SIGNATURE COCKTAIL?
I LOVE MAGARITA’S, SO I HAVE SPENT TIME PERFECTING THEM.
DO YOU THINK THERE IS A DIFFRENCE BETWEEN A BARTENDER AND A MIXOLOGIST?
DEFINITELY, ANY ONE CAN TURN AND BURN, BUT A TALENTED MIXOLOGIST WILL CREAT GREAT TASTING COCKTAILS EVEN WHEN IN THE WEEDS.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE BAR, AND WHY?
PUCK FAIR I LIKE THE SET UP, AND THE COOL ATTITUDE OF THE BARTENDERS.
WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON BUY BACKS?
MOST BARTENDERS DON’T KNOW HOW BUYBACKS WORK; MY PHILOSOPHY IS YOU BANG OUT THE SUITS AND YOUN KEEP THE LOCAL INDUSTRY HAPPY WITH ONE BUYBACK FOR EVERY 3-4 DRINKS.
WHAT ARE THE BEST DAYS TO COME AND VISIT YOU?
AFTER 11 PM THURSDAYS –SATURDAY, MY DOOR IS ALWAYS OPEN, AM HAPPY TO SEE THOSE I KNOW ANYTIME.
WHAT SHOULD GUEST BE TIPPING @ THE BAR?
20 %. THERE ARE GOING TO BE GOOD DAYS AND BAD DAYS. MY THING NOW IS TO LOOK AT TOTAL TIPS EITHER WEEKLY OR MONTHLY. HELPS KEEP THINGS IN PERSCPECTIVE.
WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO GET ON THE GOOD SIDE OF A BARTENDER?
KNOW WHAT YOU WANT TO DRINK, HAVE CASH OR YOUR CARD READY AND MOST IMPORTANTLY TIP WELL.
WHAT’S THE SHIFTDRINK POLICY AT WORK, BEFORE, DURRING OR AFTER YOUR SHIFT?
WE HERE AT PAPILLON ARE PRETTY MUCH BY THE BOOKS. NO SHIFTDRINKS ALLOWED.
It’s takes me about an hour to commute to work (three transfers), about the same amount of time I need to get my self centered before my shift. NYC is a fast-paced city and the commute can easily agitate and frustrate me especially if one of my connections is not on schedule, which happens more often than not. I also tend to be very stressed-out with a growing family that depends on me, a fairly new business venture that is barley hanging on, and every night, instead of enjoying the company of my loved ones, I get to spend the evening with loud techno/house music blaring serving foreigners from Brussels and Brazil who think 5-9% is an excellent tip.
I used to lose my shit at the restaurant at least twice a week on a constant basis for nearly five years (sound familiar?) until I realized I was slowly killing myself, getting wasted on shiftdrinks at the end of the night or, if the bartender was sympathetic, by my second turn. How I managed to get away with these shenanigans is a mystery. Luckily, management was always busy doing blow in the bathroom, texting away on their new Iphones, or playing fantasy football to even give a shit about my little problem. Plus, I was a better waiter with a buzz.
But I had to make changes, Patron Silver and I were getting a little too chummy especially at the local Irish pub where he would always dare me, no double-dare me to try and get into the new hostess’ pants, but lucky for me I’d be too wasted to even move from my bar stool. Yup I was pretty much going down the same path I always heard about, where you wake up and realize you’re not 25 anymore and your acting career does not exist because you posses no talent, you’re always hungover, you have worse than bad credit and your personal life is up in flames.
So I’ve paid some bills and have a new positive spin on life. For every shitty tip I get, I smile because shitty is better than no tip, especially with the unemployment rate close to 10%. Next on my list is going to see a therapist (I hear you’re not a true New Yorker unless you got one). In the meantime, I go to the gym four times a week, drink a lot of hot tea with lemon instead of tequila, and show up to work well-groomed with a clean uniform before every shift.
My biggest challenge always rolls around at the end of the night when am doing cash-outs and co-workers are making plans to stay out late and get fucked up, when my managers are winding down with their poison of choice and I must do the responsible thing and go home. There’s a little “mini me” who depends on me (my daughter), she’s getting older, and like Chris Rock said, ”My only responsibility is to make sure she does not end up on the pole.” Even my wife wants to spend more time with me. Who knew life could be so sweet? Check please!
The New York City Council has proposed a law that would provide paid sick days to all private sector workers.
According to the Department of Justice Office of Domestic Social Development, as of February 2009, 76% of low wage workers and 48% of full-time private sector workers are not paid for sick days.
Under the Earned Sick Leave Bill, New York employees would be paid for up to 9 sick days per year or 1 hour for each 30 hours worked. Workers who work for employers with 10 or fewer employees would earn up to 5 sick days per year.
The proposed New York City law is limited in that employees cannot earn the paid sick days until they have been employed for 90 days. Employees also have to provide the employer with notice of how much sick time is needed and the reason for the requested sick days. Mayor Bloomberg is reported to support the bill.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
(All sources of information are kept confidential. If you would like to participate in ‘The Inside Scoop’ go to the contact us)
This week we ventured to Joshua Treeand this is what we found.
HOW BAD IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
There is no family meal. You get 50% of the menu, and it can not be more than $14.00
HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
A few regulars who work in the area, but mostly tourist.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
Dinner starts at 4pm, closers stay till 2am and bartenders close the bar at 4 am.
HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
one lunch or brunch a week. You get to choose what shift you can work.
IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
Co-workers are great at switching shifts and management is pretty easy with accommodating schedule requests.
HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Very simple, setting tables, rolling silverware, refilling ketchup…easy
WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
All Artist except for one manager who had worked her way up from a serving position.
IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
No, he is great. He definitely makes the workplace a very fun environment.
NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK?
Positive: The wait staff is fun, supportive; we all take care of each other.
Negative: the Owners and management run the establishment poorly, they do not even let your friends even come visit you.
WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE?
Pooled house, 10% bussers, 15% runners, and 5% bar.
ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Tips are cash, weekly check with minimum wage hours.
IS TAKE HOME CASH EXCELLENT, GOOD, OK OR CRAPY?
Crappy, too many tourists. You could make a ton of money depending on your section, bit since it’s a pooled house you never walked with what you made.
IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
Never.
IS INSURANCE PROVIDED?
Nope,only managers.
DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
Only if the bartender sneaked you one.
That’s all for now, tune in next week for an all new INSIDE SCOOP.
"Melissa Giges is already doing what she wants to do—singing the songs she writes... deeply personal songs."
—Roberta Hershenson, The New York Times
Native New Yorker Melissa Giges (GUY-gus) has already won a loyal following with her mesmerizing performances and strikingly beautiful voice. Now, the singer-songwriter arrives in the national spotlight as one of the exciting new artists on the Engine Company Records roster with the release of her national debut, Evident.
From its opening moments, Evident challenges traditional definitions of the female singer-songwriter album, with cutting-edge organic and electronic elements that underscore the defiance delivered in Giges' haunting vocals ("Don't ask why I have got my hat pulled down over my eyes/Don't ask why I confessed those things to you the other night, 'Silent I Will Be'"). Almost daring the listener to discover exactly how much she is willing to disclose, Evident unfolds as the refined confession of a powerful woman who is prepared to go as far as her audience can ask ("Pry resistance out of me/I'm slipping slow on your slope, 'Could It Be You'").
Otherworldly guitar textures and ghostly piano lines seamlessly interweave above an inspired rhythm section in "Caught" and "Hey Lion," while distorted drum loops meet layered vocals in the album's title track. The edge-of-the-bed intimacy of "Tell Me Soon" and "Miscommunication" draws the listener even farther along the emotional path Giges is charting. "The album has many facets and themes," says Giges, "but at its core lyrically is the unspoken push and pull in the connection between two people…or between an artist and her audience."
Produced and recorded by Engine Company founder and recording artist Blake Morgan and mastered by Grammy Award-winning recording legend Phil "Butcher Bros." Nicolo, Evident is proof of an exceptional songwriter at work, matched with the ideal studio environment. Building on the foundation laid down by Jonathan Ellinghaus on drums, multi-instrumentalist Morgan (bass, guitars, keys) and Giges (piano, keys, vocals) provide the rest of the album's architecture. "We worked in the studio together for weeks, just the two of us. But I knew very quickly we were onto something special," says Morgan. "Melissa and I have extraordinary chemistry, and we shared a detailed vision for the record we wanted to make." The result is a recording of powerfully melodic and accessible songs wrapped in modern, innovative production that pulls the depth out of the songwriting, as well as the recording studio.
Evident's intelligence and sophistication are not surprising given Giges' musical background. A classically trained pianist since age four, she discovered her love of singing by humming melodies of the works she was learning for the piano. Giges continued her musical studies, later majoring in classical voice as a Presidential Arts Scholar at George Washington University. Her stand-out gifts led to performances at the White House and the Kennedy Center, as well as a European concert series. But it was in songwriting that she says she found her true voice: "It was when I began writing songs that I knew the kind of musician I needed to be. I knew what I needed to say, and how I needed to say it."
With the knowledge and confidence that her hard work has paid off, Giges affirms how fitting her album title is. "It's the album I've always wanted to make, and the moment I've been working toward."
Certainly to her audience, nothing could be more... Evident.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning Questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line So you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
This week we ventured to Matsugen owned by Jean-Georges and the Matsushita Brothers and this is What we found. HOW BAD IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
Family meal sucks!!! This successful restaurant team (Jean-Georges) Is always looking for ways to cut expenses, and it usually comes right from the staff. I remember one Night the fed us rice with eggs in it. That’s all. The don’t feed us for lunch shifts or at the end of the night, Either.
HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
The clientele is pretty good. It is in Tribeca, so the locals are pretty wealthy. Jean-George has a great reputation, so the restaurant is busy. Ever since we got 3 stars from the NY Times, we have a plethora of “fillers” (people who fill the empty seats but don’t spend a lot of money).
IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK –
The Matsushita Brothers are awesome to work for. Taka Matsushita, who is a managing partner, is my favorite person at The restaurant. Him and his Japanese chefs are so much fun to work for. The food is absolutely amazing. It is the most authentic Japanese cuisine I have ever tasted.
The negative side of the restaurant at this point is the support staff. For some reason, they keep hiring Inexperienced staff. We all know what it is like to have a busser who can’t carry 3 plates at a time or a Runner who brings food to the wrong table. I think it is because they pay the staff so poorly that Experienced staff doesn’t want to work there. It is the only restaurant I have worked where the bussers And runners all make the tipped minimum wage ($4.85/hr). Usually they get more by the hour than the Servers.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
Dinner Shifts are from 4 or 5pm to around 11pm or 1am. Lunch is from 11-3pm
HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
At least one.
IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT?IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
It is really tough to get a shift covered Right now, but it is getting better. We are going through a transition from being kind of busy to really busy. Money is not exchanged for a shift, at least not yet.
HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Minimal
WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE? (CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
Everyone here has another dream or career Goal, but many have worked with the same group of people at other restaurants. It may end up being Their career.
WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE?
The waiters tip out 54% of their tips. It is split between the bussers, runners, bar, barista, hostess, and Maitre’d. It is a lot to tip out, but there is a LOT of support staff.
ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
The waiters keep their cash tips nightly, and get the cc tips weekly. Everyone else gets cash and cc tips weekly.
IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
No.
DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
No. Another aspect of the cheapness of the restaurant towards staff. We can’t even drink soda during a Shift. Only water or black coffee.
That’s all for now, tune in next week for an all new INSIDE SCOOP.
On October 31, SUSHISAMBA takes inspiration from the COSPLAY (costume + play) subculture of Japan. The theme not only spotlights our cultural roots, but it also pays tribute to the anniversary of our renowned COSPLAY Tuesday Night party in Miami.
Some history: COSPLAY originated as a type of performance art in which participants dress to represent a specific character or idea. Most of these characters/concepts are derived directly from pop fiction including manga, anime, tokusatsu, comic books, graphic novels, video games, hentai and fantasty movies. In Japan, teenagers gather in Tokyo's Harajuku district to engage in COSPLAY.
On Halloween, all SUSHISAMBA locations will feature a spooktacular dessert special and a colorful COSPLAY cocktail.
At SUSHISAMBA rio in Chicago and SUSHISAMBA 7 in New York City, fully costumed (head to toe) guests can enter for the chance to win $1,000 cash in our COSPLAY COSTUME CONTEST. Judging will held throughout the evening, but the winner will be announced by MC between 9pm and midnight.
At SUSHISAMBA park in New York City, fully costumed (head to toe) guests can enter for a chance to win a $200 gift certificate to SUSHISAMBA. Two runners-up will receive a $100 gift certificate. All particiants will be photographed and a winner will be notified by phone/email within the week following Halloween.
Located in Cutchogue, the sunniest town in New York State, with climate and annual rainfall parallel to Bordeaux, France,the vinyards are graced with a 220 day growing season.Their philosophy is that "fine wine is made in the vineyard, you first grow the healthiest, ripest grapes possible,only then can you pursue excellence in the cellar"The vineyard is home of some of the oldest vines on Long Island,planted on rolling land with good southern exposure, providing optimum sunshine and a natural air flow.
Winemaker Russell Hearn began his career as an apprentice at the age of 16, in his homeland of Australia. He is a dedicated, studious, hands-on winemaker, and has been with Pellegrini Vineyards since its establishment in 1991
Alongside modern methods, traditional wine-making techniques thrive at Pellegrini. Deep beneath the winery, in three cellars, lie row upon row of both French, American and Hungarian oak barrels, gently aging the wines to perfection.The barrels sit on concrete runners above gravel-filled troughs. These troughs let moisture and coolness come directly up from the bare ground below. The cellars are maintained at a temperature of 60 degrees with just over 60% humidity. This helps to minimize evaporation that occurs during a wine's aging process. Their tasting room is open 7 days a weeks through out the year, with the exception of Christmas Day, New Years Day, Easter and Thanksgiving.Private Vintner's Tastings are available in Pellegrini Vineyards' Vintner's Room overlooking the Estate's Vineyards for $25 per person. The tasting fee entails a comprehensive overview and tasting of Pellegrini's current offerings, as well as select samplings from the Pellegrini Library of exclusive wines.Private Group Tours of the vineyards, fermentation and tank room as well as aging cellar are available for $10 per person for groups of 6 or more.
Oprah Winfrey has recently allegedly stated on her TV show that it is acceptable to tip servers 10% in our current economy. A faceBook group has being put together to show Oprah that her comments have a crippling affect on servers all over the world. There are so many fanatical people out there that take Oprah's word at face value and will now believe it is acceptable to tip servers only 10%. She gave this "money saving tip" on her tv show as a way to tell her audience how to enjoy a night out while cutting back costs in our current economy.
If Oprah wanted to give her audience some tips on how to save money when eating out she should have told them to have only one drink with dinner instead of two, or cut back on appetizers and desserts, or check the paper for coupons. Oprah needs to realize that the majority of servers are people that are trying to put themselves through college or have a family and kids that also rely on tips as 90% of their income.
The CMJ network connects music fans and music industry professionals with the best new music, interactive media, live events and print. The CMJ events produces the legendary cmj music marathon, the largest and longest running music industry event of its kind in addition to live events and tours across the country.
The CMJ 2009 begins in New York City and badges can be picked up at the Judson memorial church 55 Washington square. For more information click here
Finding a good bar and, even better, a great bartender is no easy task, but at Shiftdrink we are committed to exploring the city in search of “Nirvana,” leaving no bar untouched and hopefully along the way making new friends. This week we sat down with Matt McKimmiy, a diehard redsox fan, an extreme sport enthusiast and bartender at Brass Monkey. Be admonished, while at the Brass, the drunken monkey is hard to avoid.
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE BUSINESS?
SINCE I WAS SIXTEEN, ALMOST 20 YRS.
ARE YOU A PRODUCT OF BARTENDING SCHOOL OR EXPERINCE?
EXPERIENCE. THE STREETS MAN.
BIGGEST PET PEEVE BEHIND THE BAR?
“RBV”” CRANBERRY VODKA” “BUD HEAVY” JUST BUD OR BUDWEISER WILL DO THANKS. KIDS THESE DAYS.
DOES YOUR BAR HAVE A SIGNATURE COCKTAIL?
YEAH WE DO, WE CHANGE OUR LIST WITH THE SEASONS. RIGHT NOW WE HAVE AN AWSOME HOT CIDER RUM, IRISH COFFEES, AS WELL AS ABOUT 100 BEERS MANY FROM LOCAL BREWS. REALLY GOOD STUFF.
DO YOU THINK THERE IS A DIFFRENCE BETWEEN A BARTENDER AND A MIXOLOGIST?
ABSOLUTELY, A BARTENDER KNOWS YOUR FAVORITE WHISKEY AND POURS THREE FINGERS WHEN HE SEES YOU COMING (A GOOD ONE), A MIXOLOGIST IS LATE FOR WORK CAUSE HE WAS BUYING ELDER NECTAR.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE BAR, AND WHY?
WELL THE BRASS IS AWSOME, AND I CAN BE FOUND HERE (SHAMLESS PLUG), BUT AM A BIG FAN OF ACE BAR IN THE EAST VILLAGE, SKEE-BALL, DARTS EXCELLENT MUSIC, GOOD BEER….MATTY LIKEY. WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON BUY BACKS?
WELL, WHEN AM ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE BAR (DRINKING), BUYBACKS ARE MY FAVORITE THING IN THE WORLD. WHEN AM WORKING, PEOPLE NEED TO UNDERSTAND THAT A FREE DRINK ISN’T FREE TO SOMEONE, MAYBE APPRECIATE IT A LITTLE MORE. THAT SAID, WE DO TAKE CARE OF PEOPLE.
WHAT ARE THE BEST DAYS TO COME AND VISIT YOU?
THURSDAYS THROUGH MONDAY.
WHAT SHOULD GUEST BE TIPPING @ THE BAR?
DOLLAR A DRINK, 15-20% ON TABS, SHIT MAN IM NOT A VOLUNTEER, I’VE GOT MOUTHS TO FEED (PET FISH). DO THE RIGHT THING.
WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO GET ON THE GOOD SIDE OF A BARTENDER?
ACTUALLY, AND I BELIVE THIS, IT’S A TWO WAY STREET, JUST BE NICE, POLITE AND PLEASE AND THANKYOU DON’T HURT. EVERY ONE IN NYC THINKS THEY NEED TO BE SO HARD. A FAT TIP EARLY DOES NOT HURT, BUT IT DOESN’T DISGUISE A DOUCHE BAG.
WHAT’S THE SHIFTDRINK POLICY AT WORK, BEFORE, DURRING OR AFTER YOUR SHIFT?
WELL THE OWNERS ARE VERY COOL AND FAIR, SO DRINKING AT ALL BITES INTO THEIR BUSINESS AND IT’S IMPORTANT TO RESPECT THAT. BUT DO WE DRINK DURING AND AFTER? SOMETIMES YOU”LL SEE ME DO A SHOT WITH THE OWNERS. SHIT MAN, IF YOUR DRINKING BEFORE WORK THERE IS A PROBLEM, UNLESS YOU’RE THE MAILMAN, NOBODY WANTS A MASSACRE TODAY.
As a member of the Food and Beverage industry, Team Shiftdrink headed out to the New York City Food & Wine Festival on Friday and Saturday. If you have ever been to any of these types of festivals you know how crowded and annoying they can become. Although it was extremely crowded it was run very well and there wasn’t any feel of being pushed or shoved. We were able to try some new wines coming out of the US that isn’t in the big four area’s.
Michigan, Virginia, Missouri, and Texas wines were all being given a chance, along with small market liquors that you may have never heard of but will definitely in the future. Bulldog gin from London will be making noise soon along with Aperol (Think Campari without such bitterness) along with Sagatiba Cachaca just to name a few that stood out. The food portion was a little weak without much of a showing. The Food network was there with their latest iron chef competition and both came out tasting excellent. Look for the actual airing of the competition this week. Over all it was a great showing of what is available to the industry and possibly what the new trends might be showing up in your favorite restaurant.
I did it. I asked to speak with the manager. I know. I feel like such a scumbag. The shame is weighing on me like a rack of glasses. Help me, Danny Meyer! I’ve burnt sage to exorcise the demons of betrayal. How could I be capable of such a treasonous act? I broke the code of the International Brotherhood Of Those Who Sling Hash: We don’t complain about service. We always say please and thank you. We leave twenty percent. And, we… never… ever… call over the manager.
But I did. A friend of mine was in town from London and her sister suggested we plan a gathering at a popular Mexican restaurant in the East Village. I had dined there before, and my experiences, though not exemplary, were certainly respectable enough not to protest. Of the seven in our party, I was the only one who works in the restaurant industry, so I looked forward to an evening free of bitching about waiting tables. Everything was fine until the entrées arrived.
I didn’t have that much of a problem with the fact that the waitress screwed up my order. The food runner did his best to convince me that the steak I’d ordered was really the chicken he had been sent to deliver, but I wouldn’t acquiesce. I wanted steak. Minutes later, my waitress appeared with a menu in her hand and pointed out the two dishes in question and their proximity to one another as if to illustrate visually what an easy mistake “we” could have made. I thought I had been pretty clear, and I didn’t like being caught under her umbrella of guilt. It didn’t help that she attempted to up-sell another overpriced margarita before returning to the kitchen to fix the mistake. “You’re food will be out shortly,” she said, retreating to the wait station to begin cursing me to everyone employed there.
The food took forever. The steak, when it finally arrived, was microwaved beyond well-done. I began feeling nostalgia for the chicken breast I’d declined so long ago. The chicken seemed remarkably tender next to this bloodless, beef-jerky-excuse for a skirt steak that lay moribund under a heap of soggy onions before me. Meanwhile, everyone’s plates had been cleared leaving me alone to jaw at my overcooked meat and gum at my mushy red pinto beans. No one on the staff cared to ask me how my food was nor did anyone apologize after the mistake had been corrected. The waitress dropped the check when we declined dessert.
After arguing with myself for ten minutes, I asked the waitress to send the manager. When I calmly voiced my complaints, he admitted that he was aware of the mistaken order (most likely because he got stuck voiding that perfectly-cooked, moist-and-delicious chicken), which made me wonder why he had not acknowledged our table on the waitress’ behalf. I told him the moment he came over that I worked in a restaurant, hoping that he would take my criticism as friendly fire, but he maintained his service smile. He offered to take my dish off the bill and, by rote, he asked if there was anything else he could do for me.
On the way out, my friend, who put the bill on his credit card, noted that the manager had downgraded the eighteen percent gratuity, normally added to parties of six or more, to eight percent. This struck me as unfair for two reasons:
1) If the customer decides that the waitperson was not at fault for the service issues, they shouldn’t be officially discouraged from tipping what is customary, and
2) If the customer does find the waitperson to blame and prefers to leave no gratuity or a lesser one, the house should not decide that a substandard tip will ameliorate the situation.
Either scenario is totally unacceptable in my view. Working in the business, we are more sensitive when we dine out—which can be both a blessing and a curse. I’ve always felt that working as a waiter has made me much more tolerant of service mishaps, particularly those that are beyond the server’s control. Watching how arbitrarily people tip (i.e., doubling the tax when you bare your soul), deepens your appreciation of thoughtfully tipping. If service is exemplary, you should recognize it with a gratuity of twenty percent or more. If it disappoints, a standard tip should not be assumed. Waiting tables is a thankless job, but it ain’t brain surgery either.
—Warren Peace Senior Editor
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
First four-starred by The New York Times at 29, Ripert is a published author of multiple books and a recognizable TV star, thanks to "fan favorite" guest-judging stints on Bravo's reality cooking series, Top Chef. There's also the small matter of the day job: a hands-on position at the helm of New York's Le Bernardin, one of the world's most hallowed cathedrals to food. He Also adds to the list Avec Eric, a PBS venture in which he stars; it's part ecotourist travelogue, part cooking show, and part behind-the-scenes documentary at the midtown Manhattan mother ship of his restaurant, Le-Barnardin
Visit the new, improved Shiftdrink Forums page now to network, gripe, exchange nightlife recommendations, or get job advice. Here's an excerpt from the latest Forum posts:
"OK… I hate when customers steal my fucking pens after signing the check. This last week a very famous actor (he was in Top Gun, I’ll leave it at that) came into the restaurant twice and I waited on him both times. The first visit, he tipped graciously but my pen (a spanking new black G2) was missing from the checkfold. I blew it off as just a mindless mistake. Two nights later, when he returned to the restaurant he stole my pen again! It almost doesn’t matter how much people tip when they steal my pen… and a celebrity worth millions!?!? Come on, people!"
To post a new thread to Shiftdrink Forums, you must be a member. Register now to stay connected with the restaurant industry's #1 insider website. The bar's always open.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The Inside Scoop brings to light those burning questions that we all have about how the other half lives in New York restaurants. The grass isn't always greener. But we dish it up piping hot and unadulterated from real industry insiders. Team Shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
This week we ventured to NOBU TRIBECA, owned by Nobu Matsuhisa, and this is what we found.
HOW IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
Hit or miss, mostly miss. There’s always a salad which is nice. Always some kind of meat (although it’s hard to find an edible piece), some butter-doused veggies, and rice.
IS INSURANCE PROVIDED?
Yes.
HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
Lot of celebrities, good clientele during the week, Fridays and Saturdays are amateur nights, lots of foreigners.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
Hours not so bad, about 8 hours. Nobu Next Door on the weekends can get closer to 10 hours.
HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
1 or 2. The longer you work there, the fewer lunches you have to work.
IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
Not so easy. Only allowed 2 shift changes per month, must be manager approved. No money is ever exchanged.
HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Reasonable, not too hard—except soy sauce, which sucks.
WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
A blend of the two—almost half and half. Lots of Japanese people who are really serious about Nobu. IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
No. Nobu rarely comes in, when he does he’s nice. The chefs that are always there are generally cool. Tomita—the main sushi chef—is an asshole, but you can just avoid him.
NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK?
+ The money is good and the Nobu name is pretty prestigious.
- Management is weird and they can be assholes about petty things.
IS TAKE HOME CASH EXCELLENT, GOOD, OK, OR CRAPPY?
(EXCELLENT, GOOD, ONLY OK?)
I’d say good to excellent. Very steady.
WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE? ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Pooled house. I’m not sure how all the percentage works out but it’s split a lot of ways: servers, bussers, bartenders, barback, runners, sushi chef, and maitre’d. IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
They used to be, under the title of “maitre’d.” but they lost a major lawsuit and now the managers don’t maitre’d anymore.
DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
When I started you could get a glass of wine or a beer of your choice, then they took away your choice. Then they took away shift drinks altogether (except for managers, of course!)
Want to contribute an Inside Scoop for Shiftdrink?
Anyone who has ever worked in a restaurant knows how important it is to have that special place you go to after work where you find friendly faces and a stiff drink (buy backs don’t hurt either). An industry bar is like an oasis in the desert. They stay open late, and they don't get annoyed when you talk shit about your job. So for you, dear members, we’ve compiled this short list of our favorite late-night, industrial-strength watering holes. So after that next closing shift that kicks your ass, pay a visit to one of these fine establishments for some liquid lovin’. Tell ‘em Shiftdrink sent ya! Click "read more" to see our list of Best Industry-friendly bars. If you have favorites you think we missed, leave them in our comments section.
PARK BAR - Situated in the nexus of the Union Square restaurant scene, Park Bar is a favorite watering hole for waitstaff who need a bar open late that isn’t a total dump. Dimly lit and tightly-quartered, Park Bar is a cozy place to vent about that manager you can’t stand. Just make sure he/she isn’t there too before you start bitching.
PARK BAR
15 E. 15th St.
EMPLOYEES ONLY - The cat’s been out of the bag for a long time at Employees Only, a popular destination for industry when it opened in 2003. A team of five barkeeps serious about booze opened the bar long before mixology became trendy. Even the owners admit that it’s hard to cater to insiders now that they are so popular. Stay away on weekends and make sure you stick around for the chicken soup before they kick you out at 4 AM.
8th STREET WINE CELLAR - Two former Union Square café barmen targeted industry clientele from the moment they opened this underground joint two years ago. It’s a wine bar, sure, but with a deep bench of hard spirits. No rowdy music or noise will distract you from bonding with your busboys or hitting on that hot hostess. Sometimes it seems almost too serene when it’s 3 AM and you’ve just finished your third giant gin martini, but at that point the soundtrack doesn’t really matter anymore.
DBA - This a true barfly’s bar. Known for it’s extensive selections of craft beers (over 250 varietes), DBA also offers an exhaustive list of spirits. You’ll find yourself staring at the giant chalkboard drink menu overhead unable to commit to a decision. There’s not much else to do here but drink, so you better order soon. But after a closing shift on a dead night, it’s a great place to drown your sorrows with some familiar faces.
Have a favorite industry-friendly bar? Please post the info in our comments section below.
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
This year's festival is bigger and better with more than 80 city bars across all five boroughs participating in a the week long event. Events include interactive beer crawls, beer walks, and brewmaster tastings at such notable restaurants as Per Se, Resto, and Tabla. Proceeds for all events will benefit Just Food, a non-profit organization that works to develop a just and sustainable food system in the New York City Area. Information on this festival including schedule of events can be found on their website, www.nyccraftbeerweek.com.
Schedule of Events:
Gotham Cask Festival: September 11th-13th – Three bars will simultaneously tap 60 unique firkins with 20 varieties available at each. Also known as ‘real ale’, cask-conditioned beers are unfiltered, unpasteurized and served without any artificial carbonation.
Interactive Bar Crawls: September 11th-20th – Participants can plan and lead their own outings for friends within the NYCBW program from www.nycbeerweek.com.
Beer Walks: September 11th-20th – Local expert guides will lead these tours, built around cultural themes, including history, architecture, literature, cuisine – and key stops for beer.
Special Events at more than 80 beer bars in five boroughs: September 11th-20th – These include “meet the brewer” opportunities, brewmaster tastings, special beer releases, and unique food pairings, all with Passport holder price specials
Zagat House Specials Beer Pairings: September 11th-20th – Restaurant Week style menu offers food and beer specials at several neighborhood restaurants
Zagat Presents Beer Dinner Series: These prix fixe meals feature dedicated menu pairings for individual beers with each of the four courses at the following restaurants:
· September 13th – Resto (111 E. 29th St.) joins forces with Brewery Ommegang
· September 14th – Tabla (11 Madison Ave.) partners with Goose Island Brewery
· September 15th – Mas Farmhouse (39 Downing St.) teams up with Sam Adams beers
· September 18th – Per Se (10 Columbus Cir.) pairs with Brooklyn Brewery
Deconstructing Beer at Astor Center: These instructional courses will each focus on one ingredient only and how slight variations can significantly alter the final product. The courses include samplings, discussion and a demonstration of related brewing elements:
· September 13th – Arcadia Brewing’s Brewmaster Tim Surprise teaches a lesson on malt
· September 14th – Sly Fox Brewery’s Brewmaster Brian O’Reilly lectures on hops
· September 18th – Allagash Brewing’s Brewmaster Rob Tod educates on yeast Let us Eat Local Benefit Gala: September 16th – The annual fundraiser for Just Food will take place at Prince George Ballroom (15 E. 27th St.) and showcase more than 25 chefs from NYC’s finest restaurants, who will each offer a unique pairing of a 100% local dish with a regional craft beer.
Brooklyn Brewery Scavenger Hunt: September 19th – Teams of four will seek out clues derived from city lore and beer knowledge while enjoying the Brewery’s beer, capped off by a party at the brewery in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn
A Walk in the Park at Studio Square, The Official Closing Ceremony of NY Craft Beer Week: September 20th – Celebrating our city, Studio Square in Astoria (Queens) will open its Queens Loft and Royal Cellar to the public. The day will include: the premiere screening of Beer Quest Episode 1, more than 40 different extremely rare beers, local musical performances, a Greenmarket of local produce and the NY Craft Beer Week awards’ ceremony.
“I’ve been on both sides of the table,” a customer said to me last week. It was sort of an apology for sending back his steak. A floor manager used the same phrase during a pre-shift meeting recently, regaling the staff with an anecdote about the poor service he received while dining at another restaurant. The expression even appeared in a comment posted in response to an article I wrote for Shiftdrink a few months back about people who lie about food allergies while dining out (Allergy Schmallergy). This particular reader was using the expression to speak out against my attitude toward customers, claiming that my plea, which simply suggested that people should refrain from calling their distaste for certain ingredients a food allergy, was “offensive.” Although my intentions were fairly innocent in my commentary on difficult customers, I cannot resist the temptation to comment on the comment and dispel its logic before it becomes part of regular vernacular.
Unlike other equally illogical if less concerning expressions overheard at every restaurant across the country, such as “You’re going to have to wheel us out of here!” or “We didn’t ask for this!” (referring to the check) or “We hated it!” (referring to an empty plate), this expression is a more ambitious attempt to establish a deeper, more personal connection between service provider and service acceptor. The intention, though generally pure, does not, however, outweigh the more tedious implications of the phrase.
First, examine the logic of the phrase itself. How many sides are there really on a table? Four, usually, if you’re talking about the sides of the table at which one would sit, as most tables are some sort of rectangle. Six, if you’re counting the surfaces on which you would either place food and beverage or on which you might discard your chewing gum, neither of which could one actually have “been on,” so those should be excluded. None, if the table happens to be round.
This is all just a matter of geometry, which, I’m certain, is not the point. The word “both” implies that there are two sides, so let’s assume that said table is a “two-top” or a “deuce,” as we would refer to it in the business. Generally both sides of these tables are already occupied by couples, potential couples, girlfriends out for Happy Hour and man-trashing, the awkward and obligatory “night out with Dad/Mom” combination, or a myriad of other dining duos. In most cases, the view seems to be the only thing that matters between sides of the table. Certainly, seeing a waterfall or a giant Buddha makes the “booth” or “banquette” side of the table even more coveted. Unless, like me, you tend to feel trapped when needing to use the restroom, having to politely shimmy your pelvis between tables, trying not to hip check the glass of Cabernet beside you.
The expression as a whole implies that waiter is on one side and the customer is on the other, in which case the person using the expression is dining alone (which may not be unlikely). It also implies that the customer has transitioned or transcended, if you will, to the other side of the table, even a better side of the table. Restaurant.org, the website of the National Restaurant Organization, claims that 40% of people have worked in a restaurant at some time in their lives, which means that, on average, two of your party of five has been or will be wearing shock-absorbent, orthopedic shoes at some time in their life. Seldom will you find someone bringing you an iced tea that doesn’t have higher hopes for their career. They may even aspire to continue in the form of management, so that they can wear better clothes and boss people around, a side of an altogether different table.
This restless optimism towards a higher goal, however, is true of most people you would encounter in your everyday life. My first job was a clerk in a video store, but I would have no reason to tell the adolescent scanning my DVD’s at Blockbuster that I had been on both sides of the counter. Or to tell the single mother, toasting my bread at Subway, that I, too, had been on that side of the sandwich.
Rhetoric is often illogical, and metaphor can often be lost in translation. For instance, how ugly is sin, really? And could “tits on a boar” have some practical use? But can we not come up with a phrase that means, “I was a waiter once, too!” but uses more logical nomenclature? How about, “I’ve worn the apron,” or “I’ve been on both sides of the tip?” The latter seems to be the most effective, as it goes beyond all pretenses and references the one true thing that bonds the server and the served.
Perhaps it’s the undertone of the comment that is suspect. Sure, it’s an attempt to say, “Hey, I’ve been there!” or “I know where you’re coming from,” or “Don’t give me an attitude, I had to wait tables before I got this amazing nine-to-five job that I’m about to get laid off from if the economy doesn’t get better!” But it does strike a chord that resonates with “Don’t worry, Kid. Things will get better for you at some point.” Which reminds us all on this side of the table (wherever that may be) that there is indeed something for which to continue to strive; something which we may not have achieved yet, but can hope to very soon; some elusive side of the table at which everyone can sit if they press on, work hard, and don’t forget the ketchup.
Every server dreads the inevitable experience of waiting on a food critic. These days everyone has an opinion about food and no one feels under-qualified to print it—even teenage food bloggers have their own fucking URL’s. And then there’s Frank Bruni. As the maitre’d was about to seat Mr. Bruni and his guests in my station recently, my life flashed before my eyes. Every table I had ever waited on in my illustrious career slinging all kinds of overpriced hash had been in training for this moment. I was about to have my skills as a server tested by a critic for the New York Times. The only problem was… he was no longer the critic for the New York Times. He was just a normal guy named Frank who once had the most influential job in the New York food world. Now, he was just position #2 on Table 22. I was at the top of my game, and his pen was out of ink.
In past restaurant jobs, management has had all kinds of convoluted “fire drills” and contingency plans in preparation for important food critics. Bootleg pictures downloaded from the Internet would be plastered on the walls of the employee locker room like notices of neighborhood sex offenders. Only a visit from the health department might instill a similar degree of fear. If the critic was spotted, dishes would often be made in triplicate and waiters’ stations would be gerrymandered to ensure the “chosen” waiter would devote all of his/her attention on the critic’s table. It was different tonight, though. No Hazmat suits. No Defcon Five. Not the usual call for “All Hands On Deck.”
I greeted Frank and his guests with menus and a knowing smile. It felt a bit like approaching a washed-up, retired sports hero for an autograph at a memorabilia convention. As I offered wine or cocktails, Frank shyly averted my gaze. (Was he gun-shy now that he had been denigrated to the status of pedestrian foodie, ashamed of slumming it in coach with the rest of the suckers?) At first he seemed distracted—perhaps by the impending release of his memoir—but after I began describing some of the evening’s specials, he seemed to relax and enjoy an evening unencumbered by journalistic responsibility. One thing’s for sure, the guy really loves food.
At my suggestion, Frank ordered a pasta dish with sweet corn. It’s one of my favorite summer dishes, which I told Frank—careful not to impose myself too much (which I know from reading him he hates). When I checked back, he thanked me for the suggestion. Happy with my success, I confided in him that I sometimes dream about this dish in the dead of winter. (This isn’t true, of course, but we waiters sometimes have a penchant for pandering.) He suggested therapy might be in the offing. I agreed, joking that anyone stupid enough to seek employment in the restaurant business should hire a full-time therapist.
Dreams of my witty remark appearing on the front page of the Dining Out section—forever indoctrinated into the Hospitality Hall Of Fame—would alas never come true. Sadly, it was just a friendly exchange with some random table, another canned client/server moment designed to boost my tip like a million others shared in mess halls from Battery Park City to Bed-Stuy. Of course, we still went through the rudimentary protocol for a critic’s visit. We showed the plates to Chef, but not with the same amount of mortal dread about his reaction if one of the dishes returned unfinished.
Our restaurant had been one of the first reviews handed down by Mr. Bruni in 2004 when he took the helm at the Times. We were very nervous then. In fact, I was supposed to have waited on him on his final visit, but he ended up being seated in another waiter’s station at the last minute. I felt like a minor league baseball player who never got a taste of The Big Show. Years had passed, Frank had become a globally-renown food maven and I had become… well… just a better waiter. Now, Frank and I were finally meeting face-to-face, mano-a-mano—both powerless to impact each other’s lives in any meaningful way. Unless, I suppose, if I read his book, or, less likely, if he reads this article.
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
Shiftdrink was saddened to learn of the sudden passing of Elettaria, a delicate little flower of a restaurant on 8th Street owned by Noel Cruz and Chef Akhtar Nawab. Our grief was especially profound given that our planned write-up of a recent experience there was scheduled to appear on this week's homepage. We loved the place and, to commemorate her loss, we felt a tribute was in order. Shiftdrink was there Thursday night to pay our respects to the fallen year-and-a-half-old restaurant on their final night, sampling some delicious vintage champagnes and gladly helping them liquidate the contents of their top-shelf. (FYI - our staff is especially good at drinking whatever alcohol you don't need anymore). In the restaurant business, even a funeral can feel like a party.
The details of the restaurant's closing are murky, but it appears related to disagreements with the landlord. Either way, we will miss you Elettaria... even though we still are not really sure exactly what Elettaria means.
Namaste, my dear Ele. We'll remember you always.
ELETTARIA
R.I.P
February 27, 2008- August 27, 2009
Some highlights from our meal.. (We know.. you're never going to be able to order this stuff again but, what the fuck, have some respect for the dead forchissakes.)
Join us for "SIN" Service Industry Night on Sunday August 30th @ the Stone Rose from 10pm-close! Bring in your co-workers and get hook'd up VIP!Cocktails for all Sinners!
$5 Beers
$10 Wine/Champagne
$9 Wells
$10 Select Specialty Cocktails
$8 Select Appetizers
Finding a good bar, and even better a great bartender is no easy task, but at Shiftdrink we are committed to exploring the city in search of “Nirvana” leaving no bar untouched and hopefully along the way making new friends. This week we sat down with Lucas Noonan, who bartends at La Esquina, the underground clubby Soho hotspot to find out the scoop on life behind his bar. Visit Lucas at La Esquina Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday nights, be careful though, he's known to take his shirt off.
How long have you been slinging drinks?
Long enough to know that Madonna and Sean Penn were once married.
Are you a product of work experience or Bartending School?
The worst bartender I ever worked with had a bartending license! Nothing like on the job training.
What’s your biggest pet peeve behind the bar?
Besides virgin mojitos made with splenda? Next question please.
Do you have a signature cocktail?
Do you want the recipe for my signature body shot or the Lucas Lemonade? I can make you an LL but if i set up the body shot, I may get fired.
Do you think there is a difference between a bartender and mixologist?
I think mixologists can make great bartenders, but if you're trying to explain how the density of the gravel at 72 degrees affects the growth and taste of a ginger root to some guy who wants 3 vodka redbulls, then get the fuck out of the bar!
Do you have a favorite bar that you frequent a lot? If so what’s makes it so special?
If you know of someone greater than Gerry, who once sang "Under The Milky Way" by The Church at karaoke, then I will be there. Since then I havent found a new home. I miss you Gerry.
How do you feel about buy-backs?
Buybacks are a great way to make customers feel appreciated.
What should guests be tipping per drink?
$2 a drink is reasonable and appreciated. No quarters please.
What would be the best way to get on the good side of a bartender?
Aside from sitiing at the bar, nursing a negroni or some other drink you read about in GQ magazine on a really busy night and asking what every drink I am making is? Ask the bartender his or her name, then whenever anyone comes to the bar, tell them the bartenders name and be sure to mention that he or she makes the best mojitos or whatever drink it may be that you as the customer knows nothing about, but is suddenly an expert on because you saw me make one for someone else. And thanks for the $1.35 tip!
Do you get shift drinks at the end of your shift or during the shift?
If i didn't get a shift drink, do you even think I would waste my time answering these questions?
Want to be featured in a Shiftdrink profile? Send us an
and we'll come visit you at your bar.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
(All sources of information are kept confidential. If you would like to participate in ‘The Inside Scoop’ go to the contact us)
Finding a good bar, and even better a great bartender is no easy task, but at Shiftdrink we are committed to exploring the city in search of “Nirvana” leaving no bar untouched and hopefully along the way making new friends. Stumbling around the Columbus Circle area recently we came across Stone Rose in the Time Warner Center, as we planted ourselves on the barstools, we knew we were home when we met Oana (prounounced Wah-nah).
How long have you being slinging drinks?
Five Years
Are you a product of work experience or Bartending School?
Work experience.
What’s your biggest pet peeve behind the bar?
Keeping everything organized.
Do you have a signature cocktail? If so do you mind sharing it with us?
I do, but don’t have a name for it. I use nothing but French liquors.
Do you think there is a difference between a bartender and mixologist?
Yes there is. Bartenders make drinks, mixologist creates the drinks. Do you have a favorite bar that you frequent a lot? If so what’s makes it so special?
Believe it or not, I like my bar, it’s elegant and I like the people I work with, so I find my self here on my days off.
How do you feel about buy-backs?
They are good for business.
What are the best days and hours to come and visit you?
Am here from Thursday to Monday.
What should guests be tipping per drink?
Standard $2 per drink. What would be the best way to get on the good side of a bartender?
Be Patient, and tip well.
Do you get shift drinks at the end of your shift or during the shift?
No.
What do we do before the doors open and the dinner rush hits? Well, this nifty little vid offers some scary insight into the mundane world of the hapless waiter before the first seating begins. The music sucks, the customers are cheap...and all you can do is dance your blues away.
When Walter Foods opened in Williamsburg in mid-September of 2008, they did so without all the hoopla typical of New York restaurant openings these days. “We just let it happen organically,” breathes Danny Minch, one of the owners and bartenders of Walter. “We wanted people in the neighborhood to feel like this was their place. So we opened one night without telling anyone just to see who would wander in.” And many wanderers did stumble upon the smiling “mercow,” the crest that guards the window face of this sleek-looking restaurant on Grand Street.
“What is the mercow?” I inquire. “Surf and turf,” says Danny, “You see a cow and a fish—we wanted it to be self-explanatory. The mercow is fun to look at. We definitely don’t want to take ourselves too seriously because it really is just a place to eat and drink.” Dylan Dodd, the co-owner, adds, “We like the idea of keeping it simple, familiar. You’re never going to struggle to pronounce something on the menu, or have a waiter take fifteen minutes to describe a dish or a drink or a wine. Less time explaining things, more time interacting with the customers and making them feel great.”
Even during my first time dining at Walter, I noticed the ease of the menu. And the moment my table was approached by a bowtie-and-butcher-apron-clad server with a warm smile I understood the concept immediately. “We are inspired by old New York,” Danny and Dylan both explain in their own ways. “Steaks, chops, raw bar…good, friendly late-night service,” states Danny. “We like the idea of everybody being welcome,” adds Dylan, “You can be a grandmother, a grandkid, a hipster, a stockbroker and you’re greeted with open arms. That’s New York.”
Danny and Dylan met as bartenders and their experiences as friends inspired their business plan. “We never had that place we always wanted to go,” says Danny. Dylan was a patron at Balthazar every Sunday with his, now, wife where Danny tended bar. Danny even invited Dylan to his birthday party once. “Working at Balthazar is what made me want to open a restaurant,” Danny reveals. “If you go to most of Keith’s restaurants you feel like you’re being waited on by real people, having drinks made by real people.”
“We also wanted the friendliness of the bar at the table,” Dylan chimes in. “We’re both bartenders, so we like the idea of the waiter being less of a waiter, but friendly the same way as a bartender, where you could hail him without any tension.” There also isn’t a bad seat in the restaurant. Wherever you are, you have a nice little nook, and a view of the cheery chefs’ faces, sweating inside the compact kitchen (which is only about half the size of a New York City studio apartment).
The new chef de cuisine, Jeff Rasmussen, who has worked with the likes of David Bouley and Charlie Trotter, loves the idea of cooking and eating “unfussy” food. Jeff first worked with Danny when they opened Morandi together. Since taking over, he says, “We’ve tightened up the menu by changing a couple of dishes into how I like to eat them—the vinaigrettes on the salads and what comes with the pork chop, for example. Also, the first thing the owners wanted to tackle was to make the lunch menu concrete.”
While I am interviewing, the staff chows on a picnic style family meal of corn on the cob, potato salad, fried chicken, and tuna melts and gulping down Arnold Palmers (iced tea and lemonade). I use the opportunity to investigate the management’s insight as to the relationship it has with its staff. Danny seems to think, “They like us. And we like them. The staff are people we would hang out with outside of work. I think they respect and appreciate us. Dylan and I don’t hang back at home giving orders. We’re here working with them, so I think they like that. This place was meant for restaurant people to come to late night, so we’re getting a lot of other restaurant staff coming here, hanging out with our staff,” remembering how I’d first discovered Walter late one Sunday night.
“If you want to come in here by yourself and drink a beer, you can do that. If you want to get a hundred oysters, steak, and lobster, get married you can do that. If you want to come in here and flirt, take your parents here, that, to us, is New York in a lot of ways,” Danny states with conviction. Dylan adds, “We want to be here for twenty years. We’re not trying to be the hottest thing. We’re going for longevity.”
I don’t think the beauty of classic New York will be going out of style any time soon.
No one knows better where to find good drinks and cool bars than the people who work in them. So, the staff at Shiftdrink has scoured the city to bring you the finest cocktails and inside information on the staff behind the scenes at the city’s hottest venues. Introducing: The Drink List. For this week’s installment, we visited Soho and here is what we drank:
THE BAZOOKA
At Tailor, the brainchild of former WD-50 pastry guru Sam Mason, they take mixology to a futuristic level applying concepts of molecular gastronomy to their drink menu (curated by wünderkind bartender Eben Freeman). Order “The Waylon” (12 bucks), for example, and you’ll be served a drink in a Collins glass that looks unassuming like a run-of-the-mill Jack and Coke with a lemon wedge. The Waylon is indeed bourbon-based, but the kitchen runs the coke syrup through a smoker and plugs it back into the soda gun. That’s right—smoked coke.
The weirdest cocktail by far was “The Bazooka” (13 bucks), a vodka-based confection shaken and served up with house-made bubble gum cordial and lime juice. You’ll definitely giggle when you taste it. If you stick around for a nightcap, taste the incredible house-made infused spirits including a cognac flavored with crushed biscotti, miso-butterscotch infused bourbon, and curried rum (16 bucks for a flight of three). The only flop was the selection of “Solid Cocktails,” three “shots” served in solid form. The meager plate consisted of absinthe gummy bears, watermelon cubes soaked in vodka, and a miniature cereal bowl filled with white Russian and cocoa pebbles. It was a conversation piece, but a total gyp for 12 bucks.
MORELLO PISCO SOUR
A newcomer to the neighborhood, Jo’s reorganizes the old Tasting Room space into a more user-friendly experience. The cocktail menu (designed by Schiller’s alum Kevin Felker) has deep respect for the classic but isn’t afraid to break from tradition either. The bar area is also thoughtfully designed, from the rounded marble bar that promotes a more social atmosphere to the enclosed waiting area adjacent to it with ledges that make cocktailing more comfortable. All specialty drinks are fairly priced at 9 bucks, including a delicious “Summer Margarita” spiked with chipotle-infused tequila and cooled with watermelon puree, a good starting out point. The drink is shaken over sturdy square ice cubes and a spicy sea-salted rim laced with dried ancho chili powder. Continuing with the Latin theme, we moved on to the “Morello Pisco Sour”—another twist on a classic—homemade cherry syrup shaken with Barsol Pisco, egg whites, and lime. The bartender poured the frothy drink gently over a cherry garnish and, using a dropper, carefully anointed it with three dots of Angostura bitters. Chef Ian Kapitan offers a smart menu of American Bistro fare served late like Shrimp Pierogis with Sweet Corn Emulsion, Foie Gras French Toast with Cherry Gastrique, and Honey-Glazed Pork Shank with English Peas and Cockles. Jo’s has happy hour from 5-7 PM every Monday through Friday featuring discounted house cocktails and craft beer specials. JO’S
264 Elizabeth St.
(212) 966-9640 www.josnyc.com
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
The 3-weeks of Summer restaurant week’ kick off this Sunday, the 12th to 30th of this month. Top restaurants all over the city will be serving up 3-course lunches and dinners for $24.07 and $35, respectively. I for one, am having mixed feeling about it, because just like David Chang, I hate to be busy while making minimum cash, running around serving well done food. But with this economy I’m willing to work extra shifts in order to make ends meet. Restaurant week is also an opportunity to experience top tier restaurants without breaking the bank. So let’s all play our part in saving the economy and visit our fellow shiftdrinkers and spend a buck or two (c'mon even go over 20% for our trouble). You might catch us at the following places:
• Del Posto
• Eleven Madison Park
• Olana
• Gotham bar and grill
• Megu midtown
• Palm Steak House
• Molyvos
• Matsugen
• Union Square Café
• August
Untill then, your table is waiting.
About the Author
If Winston is not home babysitting, he is usually either at the Restaurant serving Peking Duck or at Shiftdrink’s offices screening endless You Tube videos. With the emergence of the Interent, Winston combines his zeal for entrepreneurship and fourteen years of experience in food service to put together the team behind Shifdrink. Winston loves to play with his daughter, snowboard, and come up with new exciting recipes for sweet Italian sausages, Chinese noodles, and Scotch.
To help you prepare for that weekend barbecue, we’ve compiled a list of some favorite summer wines that won’t break the bank but won’t make you look chintzy either. Since everyone is sick of the same ‘ole grapes, too, we picked out some drinkable favorites under 20 bucks a bottle made from more esoteric grapes from around the globe. We’ve also included a suggested food pairing with each bottle in case you’d also like to impress with your favorite summer dishes.
NEDERBURG “LYRIC” South Africa, 2009 - Be the first on your block to have a wine from the 2009 vintage with this mouthwatering white from Romanian cellarmaster Razvan Macici. (South Africa’s growing season ends in mid-February). “Lyric” blends Sauvignon (56%) and Chenin Blanc (23%) with Chardonnay (21%) grapes grown along the Western Cape and delivers flavors of tart stone fruit with zippy acidity reminiscent of a refreshing Sancerre or Vouvray. Suggested pairing: Pasta salads, shrimp cocktail, or finger sandwiches.
CHATEÂU DE CAMPUGET “Costières de Nîmes” Côte du Rhône, 2008 - We love this delicious and affordable Rhone rose from Chateâu de Campuget. Made from Syrah (70%) and Grenache (30%) grapes grown in the Costières de Nîmes, once a riverbed for the Rhone, the wine exhibits a distinct terroir. The stony soil lends the wine mineral notes beneath the early season strawberry flavors and soft floral aromatics. Suggested Pairing: Cheese and paté, salami, or goat cheese salad.
BODEGA ENRIQUE FOSTER “Ique” Mendoza, 2007 – Malbec has surged in popularity in recent years as consumers eschew mainstream grapes in favor of more exotic offerings. The “Ique” (the winemaker’s nickname) is classic Malbec with plump, dark berry flavors and notes of char and gaminess that cry out for juicy meat. The winery’s advanced “gravity flow” system eliminates the need to pump wine through each stage of the process, and the wine is aged without the intrusion of oak. Suggested Pairing: Italian sausages, dry-rubbed ribs, or sirloin steaks.
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
"Do you have a water preference, sir, bottled or tap?” I humbly ask. “Giuliani Water is fine,” he proudly answers to the delight of his guests. I don’t smile. Two terms after our beloved former mayor has become a private citizen, those who drink tap in New York City restaurants continue to amuse themselves and irritate waiters with this remark. Some elect for the more contemporary “Bloomberg Water” or simply ask for “New York’s Finest.” Occasionally, they’ll take it further by assuring everyone present, including you, that “It’s the best water in the world!” in case anyone thought the springs of the Italian Alps might be a safer bet. A big part of our job as waiters is to humor people who say infinitely stupid things. Here are a few of my favorite scenarios:
1. “We Hated It!”
You clear with the requisite “How was everything?” then—as though no one has ever considered the irony—they proclaim, “We hated it!” But how can that be? Everything is completely devoured from the plate? The party erupts with hysterical laughter, while you struggle to muster a service smile. Other popular variations include: “Send it back!” “Can we get a refund?” or “Tell the chef he should take this off the menu!” Withhold your phony laugh until you hear theirs since it’s always possible that they may, in fact, hate it.
2. “Promise Me It’s Decaf!”
Short of testifying under oath, I’m not sure what waiters can do to convince decaf drinkers that they have delivered the goods as advertised. Evidently, there is a citywide coffee conspiracy because customers continue to threaten waiters’ lives. Among the typical fatawa: calling you at three in the morning, asking for your address to wake you up personally at three in the morning, or returning to the restaurant the next day to exact vengeance on you. The threat will be followed by a long anecdote about a rogue waiter who poisoned them with caffeine and kept them up until—that’s right—three in the morning.
3. “We’ll Have One Of Everything.”
Ashamed to dignify this oft-heard remark, you say, “I’d be impressed” to which they respond, “Has anyone ever done that?” You’re getting sat again, so you ignore the question and prompt them to order. “I’ll have a cheeseburger, fries, and a Coke.” This is supposed to be funny because it’s a three-star dining room, but your glare let’s them know that you don’t have time for a comedy routine. When they finally get the message, they usually ask, “So, what’s good here?”
4. “You’re Gonna Have To Roll Us Out Of Here.”
This is a customer’s boorish way of conveying to you that they are full. “Do you have a wheelbarrow?” they might say, or “We’re going to need a stretcher.” The door is on a forty-five minute wait and the bar three deep. If they don’t pay soon, someone may have to.
5. “Do You Have Any Low-Calorie Desserts?”
The fattest person at the table usually asks which almost makes you laugh but you can’t give them the pleasure. After having issued this inane remark, they will place an order for one dessert and ask you to bring x-number of spoons corresponding to the number of guests in their party (even though you know they will not be sharing). Then, they will leave a ridiculously small piece of chocolate cake on the plate and say, “Oh, I couldn’t possibly eat another bite.” See number 4.
6. “We thought We Lost you.”
You don’t even have time to thank them for their concern because you are in the weeds. After being passive-aggressive with you all night, this customer will then use separation anxiety as an excuse to justify a sub-standard gratuity (even though he/she is already a bad tipper). You know from experience that they are undeserving of your hospitality and so you continue to “get lost” in favor of new revenue streams.
7. “Medium Rare… But A Little Bit More To The Rare Side.”
The traditional scale of meat temperatures may be long overdue for a makeover. Let’s face it—the old system is simply out of touch with the needs of the modern foodie. Think about all of the temperatures that are not accounted for in the classic model: “Medium Rare but not bloody,” “Well done but not dry,” “Still mooing,” and, of course, my all-time favorite, “Pink.”
8. “We’re Gonna Make It Easy For You.”
If you hear this one, you are guaranteed the table will require above average attention. This person will probably ask your name purely to indenture you into their service. Every request will be prefaced with a syrupy sweet “Whenever you get a chance…” and punctuated with “Thanks, [your name]”. There will be no end to the errands they make you run. “Whenever you get a chance… Can we get a toothpick? Oh, And a hot water with lemon? Thanks, [your name]!” There is nothing easy about waiting tables, and anyone who thinks it is will always need everything before you get a chance.
—Warren Peace Senior Editor
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
The comeback of the beloved cocktail has been woefully overdue and, in the process, many people have forgotten about the spirits that actually made these drinks great. While Gin and some brandies are enjoying the limelight again, Rye Whisky gets lost in he shadows. Everybody knows its good, but does anybody really know what it is? Not likely. Unfortunately, there is not much rye made, it is not regulated by the government, and, frankly, it’s unlike anything else.
The story of Rye is a brutal tale at best, beginning just around the birth of America. Instead of settling in the bustling cities along the Eastern seaboard, Scotch, Irish, and German immigrants ventured further west toward the Alleghany Mountains, throughout Pennsylvania, Maryland, and West Virginia. With the influx of such a diverse ethnic mix, drinks were needed to ease the adjustment. If you have ever been to Pittsburgh, the cradle of Rye production, then you’ll understand what I mean. The Scotch and Irish couldn’t figure out how to get barley to grow in the, let’s face it, shitty weather in Pittsburgh, so they needed alternative grains. The Germans had some experience working with rye in the production of schnapps. So, with the combination German know-how and Irish distilling techniques, Rye Whisky took hold.
Before those pesky Brits imposed that silly Molasses Act, Rum was the drink of choice for most colonists. Making Rum cheaply was impossible; Rye was a different story. The irony is that Rye was one of the first things taxed by the same politicians, like George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, who distilled it. Ah…God Bless Bureaucracy! In defense of their beloved Rye, there are documented accounts where federal enforcers were tarred, feathered and marched right back to the Capitol.
The Whisky Insurrection in Western Pennsylvania of 1794 threatened to burn down Pittsburgh. Alas, two relatively smart men sat down and hatched a plan, no doubt over a glass of Rye. The two men were, of course, Washington and Jefferson. The pair decided to offer the drunken hillbillies of Pennsy the opportunity to move to the Kentucky region of Virginia. If these rugged guys went down to Kentucky to build a permanent structure and raise the native crop, corn, then they would be exempt from paying taxes. The glory days of Rye Whisky were over.
Today, Rye is used in the production of many spirits including Gin, Vodka, and Canadian Whisky. However, a true whisky nut will understand that Rye isn’t Rye unless the word “straight” appears on the label. The term straight means that rye is the dominating grain making up at least 51% of the mash bill (the recipe of the dry cereals used in production). It also lets the consumer know that there are no additives, like caramel coloring or sugar. Today, we are now seeing distilleries make things like 100% Rye, without filtering or diluting them. It may sound a bit simplistic, but, in fact, these spirits have not been produced in this form for hundreds of years. Most Rye Whiskeys on the market today (like Canadian Club) are not examples of Straight Rye. Compared to Bourbon, Straight Rye Whisky comes across softer, not as sharp, but has a much spicier profile. Ryes make excellent cocktails, such as the classic Manhattan, but in my opinion are less ideal examples of the past than exceptional indicators of the future of mixology. If we are all lucky we can share a glass and put Rye right back on its pedestal where it belongs. That much history in one bottle is too much to go unnoticed.
As much as I hate to admit a visit to the Time Warner Center, at least this time I had a good excuse—wine tasting. Clo is a tiny kiosk of a wine bar situated on the fourth floor nestled in the passageway between its higher-profile neighbors like Per Se and Masa. It’s easy to walk by Clo with as little regard as you might have for a Precious Moments booth in the mall. Once inside, though, you bear witness to the wine bar of the future. There are no antiques, and the menu is not intentionally scuffed. Clo is a oenological techno remix. Thank God for Kendra, our server, who, sensing our bewilderment, came to our rescue. About a hundred wines are lined up behind glass windows that make the whole place feel like a giant vending machine whose ominous walls are slowly caving in on you.
Kendra sweetly breaks down the rules of engagement and asks for a credit card. She will offer you the wine list in a binder, but the better way to experience it is by touching the interactive table which projects pictures of each wine bottle along with grape varietals, region, price, and tasting notes. An infrared sensor above measures your movement so you can scroll through the list like an Iphone. The technology is not perfect, but it looks cool as hell.
Once you’ve selected your wine, your server issues you a plastic debit card and directs you to the proper window corresponding to that wine. (Each wine has a code on the wall—like E4—making it even more eerily like a candy machine.) Prices range between about $10 to the mid-$50s per each four-ounce pour.
My first glass was a 2006 "Silene" Crozes-Hermitage from J.L. Chave, which spewed freshly from the metal spout like hot drip coffee. The wine dispensation system, The Enomatic, takes center stage at Clo. The Italian-made apparatus keeps wine fresh by shooting a wisp of argon gas into the bottle to prevent oxidation between servings. The Enomatic has its critics, but I experienced the wines of Clo to be very fresh and alive. I would’ve liked a slightly bigger pour, though.
Brian, one of the partners who was also managing that night, came over to taste us on a Bierzo from Spain—something I think he was considering adding to the candy machine. I was surprised by its freshness since I always find Spanish red brooding and overly oaky. This Bierzo, Brian explained, carries a “Joven” designation which means that the wine is released younger and without the oak conditioning so typical of the regions reds.
I was looking for something a little barn-yardy for my next glass and Brian suggested a funky Languedoc, the 2006 “Terre D’Ombre” from Reynaud Delille, made with 100% Mourvedre grapes. The wine, essentially a declassified Bandol made from younger vines, delivered as advertised and was a nice accompaniment to our cheese plate.
The ambiance is the biggest drawback to Clo, but I noticed the clientele—mostly women—seemed not to mind. By 7 PM, most of the stools along the 20-foot table were filled. It’s a great place to meet after work to catch up on the day’s gossip or a fun first date where the adventure of serving yourself could distract from the awkwardness. For those of us who work in restaurant biz, well… I guess you could say it’s just like being a kid in a candy store.
—Warren Peace Managing Editor
CLO
Time Warner Center
10 Columbus Circle
New York, NY 10019
212-823-9898 www.clowines.com
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
Sometimes it's good, most of the time it's bad. Whatever it is, you have to eat it. The Staff Meal. One's thing for sure... we don't eat off the menu. Shiftdrink has scoured the city's finest eateries to uncover the secrets of how they feed the waitstaff. This week's installment, stuffed Ham Hocks at Babbo. Sounds like Mario's determined to keep the staff eating as much pork as his customers do.
Tune in to Shiftdrink to find out how waitstaff around the city are being fed and
pictures of your favorite or most repulsive family meals.
New Yorkers are getting 'Cued up this weekend for BBQ from all over the country at the 7th Annual Big Apple Barbecue Block Party in Madison Square Park. We braved the rain on Saturday to scope it out and let y'all know what's cookin'. Once we finally got through the long lines, we enjoyed a delicious Pulled Pork Sandwich with coleslaw from Ubon's "Champion's Choice" BBQ in Yazoo City, Mississippi. The vinegary barbecue sauce had a sour kick and the pork was smoky and tender on an eggy bun. As New Yorkers, we felt obligated to support one of the four New York-based pitmasters, so we gnawed on some tasty baby backs and snarfed down some tangy baked beans from Rack & Soul right here in Manhattan. The festival continues through Sunday June 14th, 11 AM-7 PM. Get there early though since many vendors seemed to be 86'd by 3 PM.
The festival features a beer garden, live music, and cooking demos. Food options range from beef brisket to pulled pork shoulder to the whole hog. Aficionados can also buy bottles of BBQ sauce and dry rubs from their favorite purveyors.
For more information on Big Apple Barbecue visit their website: www.bigapplebbq.org
We at the Murphy-Goode Winery got to thinking about the new age of communications and we figured it was a pretty good thing. So to get going, we’re looking for someone (maybe you) who really knows how to use Web 2.0 and Facebook and blogs and social media and YouTube and all sorts of good stuff like that — to tell the world about our wines and the place where we live: the Sonoma County Wine Country.
In exchange, we’re offering you a “Really Goode Job” — a six-month job paying $10,000 a month plus accommodations!
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
(All sources of information are kept confidential. If you would like to participate in ‘The Inside Scoop’ go to the contact us)
This week we ventured to BLT STEAK owned by Laurent Tourondel and this is what we found.
HOW BAD IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
Lunch= rice + beans, (Thumbs Down)
Dinner= Hot dogs, greasy Chicken plus salad. Slightly better than lunch.
HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
Big business lunch, with a socialite clientele. Dinners are more family oriented, with a lot of birthday celebrations.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
Lunch- 11:45-2:30
Dinner- 5:30- 11pm
In times are $4:30 to 12pm.
HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
2-3 shifts
IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
it’s relatively easy to cover shifts, managers do need to approve the switch, but no money is ever required.
HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Standard side work
WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
A good blend of both.
IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
He has his moments, but am luck not to have experienced that side of him
NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK? POSITIVE: health care, 50% dinners, good pay NEGATIVE: Mostly a male staff , pretentious Guest
WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE?
Ever since the law suit, they changed the system. We now have floor supervisors(captains) not like before when they were managers who got tipped out the waiter pool.
ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Weekly check
IS TAKE HOME CASH EXCELLENT, GOOD, OK OR CRAPY?
Excellent
IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
Yes, Maitre’d and Floor supervisors
IS INSURANCE PROVIDED?
Yes after six months.
DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
No. We used to until things got of control.
That’s all for now, tune in next week for an all new INSIDE SCOOP.
Finding food after work is always an ordeal when you work in restaurants. Next time you need a quick fix, swing by Black Iron Burger between Avenue A & B on 5th Street. We realize that a great burger can be a controversial subject, but if you've been out drinking (and you know we always have) and you're not going to overanalyze it too much, it hits the spot. The burgers are juicy (but not greasy) served on a sturdy sesame-seed brioche roll. Don't be afraid to slap some white cheddar and bacon on that sucka as we did. Just look at that thing!
Fries were pretty straight forward, Mickey D's style shoestrings with appropriate balance of salt and crunch. One unfortunate miss was a plate of limp fried string beans that were all stuck together like Jolly Green Giant tempura. We weren't really sure what to make of them but were too busy enjoying the burgers to dwell.
As any self-respecting burger joint should, Black Iron features a nice list of draft beers, domestic and otherwise. The seasonal Six Points brew was tempting but we elected for cold pint of Radeberger Pilsner instead. When the server came over to offer another round of beers, we were more interested in another round of burgers.
BLACK IRON BURGER SHOP
540 East 5th St.
New York, NY
212-677-6067 www.blackironburger.com
*open til 2:30 A.M. Fridays & Saturdays
What wines are the most popular in today’s restaurant scene? What are America’s best sommeliers putting on their lists and what wines are up-and-coming? Taste through the “Top of the List” as W&S celebrates its first New York event based on the 20th Annual Restaurant Poll, its best selling issue. The tasting happens at City Winery—the new live music space that holds the distinction of being Manhattan’s only winery.
Over 100 wineries will pour the top wines served in America’s best restaurants, paired with specialties from some of NYC’s most esteemed chefs. A series of intimate, seated retrospective tastings will take place throughout the day. The Brooklyn Boogaloo Blowout will close out the night with a show for the evening's featured winemakers, which all ticket purchasers are invited to attend.
Come visit us at: http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com/events/poll2009/
General Admission: $75
June 2, 2009
Grand Tasting 5 to 7
Live Show Afterparty 7 to 9
SAVE THE DATE:
October 14, 2009-Wednesday
TOP 100 Tasting Event in San Francisco”
All members of the trade who are subscribers to Wine & Spirits Magazine can attend the grand tasting free of charge. All trade inquiries: traderegistration@wineandspiritsmagazine.com
Sometimes it's good, most of the time it's bad. Whatever it is, you have to eat it. The Staff Meal.
This week we sneak another peek at the family meal at Franny's in Park Slope where even the staff meal is seasonal. These guys love to rub it in when they eat well. "How ya like me now, rest. peeps!? Suckas!" says our anonymous tipper. This seriously looks too good to be true. We can't deal.
Feel free to
of your staff meals, no matter how gnarly or beautiful it may be. All postings are kept completely anonymous.
Keep tuning into Shiftdrink to find out how waitstaff around the city are being fed.
To those of you with food allergies, on behalf of the entire restaurant industry, I would like to say that our sympathy goes out to you. Really. It must be difficult to have to be constantly aware of what you cannot put into your body but what also appears on just about every menu across America: eggs, dairy, peanuts, shellfish, wheat gluten, garlic, sulfites, etc. You can certainly imagine how difficult it is to be us: offering a variety of delicious options, unfortunately all having been prepared with normal people in mind. But to those of you who dine out and claim to have a food allergy because you don’t care to eat something for one reason or another, I would like to offer a gentle explanation of the havoc you wreak in our establishments.
Accommodating the needs of special diners is certainly part of the job. From the old favorites like dairy intolerance and peanut allergys to newly emerging reactions to wheat gluten and sulfites, research shows that roughly 3 out of every 100 adults suffer from food allergies worldwide. While this doesn’t appear to be a high percentage, certainly more than 3% of restaurant diners in New York City claim a food allergy as a basis for making outlandish requests of the kitchen. The fact that New Yorkers comprise a large portion of the world’s restaurant goers may contribute to this phenomenon.
I propose, however, that for various reasons, people lie about it.
Claiming that an acute dislike of something is a food allergy is generally quite transparent. Yes, mushrooms may make me want to vomit; not from the fact that my body is rejecting their chemical structure, but because I think they are disgusting. And I certainly have no issues with asking to have them left out (not taken out) if possible... But claiming that you are allergic to black pepper and requesting to have it left out of your marinara sauce is, well, not very realistic.
Claiming that you are allergic to something that does not conform to your current weight loss plan is just distasteful. “I can’t eat wheat,” says the woman who read in her latest issue of Self Magazine that she should give it up. “And I’ll have another Vodka martini.” No reason to bother explaining that her vodka is distilled from grains. A gentle explanation of your dining needs is certain to garner more cooperation if not a deeper margin of sympathy from your server.
Religious affiliation is another thing entirely. Far be it from me to belittle what anyone thinks is going to get them into heaven. If you’re trying to keep kosher, just speak up proudly. Enough people in the industry have a working knowledge of a kosher diet to accommodate you. If you’re strict kosher, well, do what the rabbis do: B.Y.O.K.F. (Bring Your Own Kosher Food). But Catholics, if you gave up something for Lent, just tell us the truth about it. Don’t save it for confession.
The normal layperson with a food allergy may not understand the concept of “prep.” Many must imagine the chef down in the kitchen, only raw ingredients in front of him, waiting patiently to prepare each individual dish to the needs and desires of each patron. They may not be aware that every dressing, sauce, and garnish (and many of the meats, starches, and vegetable dishes) have been prepared far ahead of time in large quantities and are simply waiting to be presented in the right combinations.
But telling a server that one is allergic to something sets a whole new ball in motion. The chef has to be alerted, surfaces have to be cleaned to prevent cross-contamination, recipes have to be scrutinized closely, and, frankly, the other twenty-seven people in that server’s station would like some attention as well. And one of them may actually have a food allergy.
And if that allergy is a serious one (by serious, we’re talking anaphylactic shock), I would advise that person that, though we do want to help, the chances of your food containing trace amounts of whatever it is that may kill you are slim, but not nonexistent.
With new allergies emerging and the percentage of sufferers increasing, perhaps there will come a day when diners suffering from food allergies can enjoy a meal in an establishment which has prepared each dish with their exact dietary requirements in mind. Oh, wait. We already have those. They’re called: Your Own Home. Just think of it as a sort of restaurant franchise for allergy sufferers. The service may be friendlier, and you don’t need a reservation. Until then, bring your EpiPen.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
(All sources of information are kept confidential. If you would like to participate in ‘The Inside Scoop’ go to the contact us)
This week we ventured to BOULEY owned by DAVID BOULEY and this is what we found.
HOW BAD IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
When available not bad, but sparse
HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
Up scale, polite, but also a good percentage are foreign.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
1130-3pm Lunch
5-1130Pm Dinner
Shifts are usually 7-8 hrs long.
HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
Three is the average for full time.
IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
Yes. Not that I know of
HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Fairly simple, 15-20 min at open and 15-20 min at close.
WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
A combination, though most staff is full time.
IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
He is very demanding and seems to have little regard for FOH staff. Very talented and dedicated though he is there every day.
NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK? Positive: Beautiful restaurant with quality products and precise service. Negative: Attitude of the chef combined with long hours.
WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE?
Point system for all FOH staff, including captains.
ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Weekly check, cash tips paid out weekly as well but they are minimal.
IS TAKE HOME CASH EXCELLENT, GOOD, OK OR CRAPY?
Almost non-existent
IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
Maitre’d only
IS INSURANCE PROVIDED?
Not sure
DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
No way.
That’s all for now, tune in next week for an all new INSIDE SCOOP.
Ever wanted to own a piece of a restaurant but didn't have the bankroll to make it a reality? Well, now you can own shares of the reservation system used on over 9,000 restaurants across the country, Open Table. The San Francisco based company plans an initial public offering this week, trading under the ticker symbol "OPEN." It began operations as Easyeats.com in 1998. The company generated $55.8 million dollars in revenue in 2008 up 36% year-over-year, but netted losses due to costs related to expanding their business into Europe. Trading is expected to open between $12-$14 a share on the Nasdaq with the company initially offering three million shares on the open market. Due to bleak economic conditions in the restaurant sector and consumer discretionary stocks overall, the market's response to the offering is expected to be lukewarm. Proponents of investing in Open Table point to their virtual monopoly over reservation systems and encouraging signs that a successful IPO will improve its prospects for expanding internationally.
At first, the crazy amounts of cash band-aided the emotional scars of witnessing the ounces of Kobe beef, platters of sushi, and pounds of Kung Pao chicken being squandered every night. I was physically scarred by climbing the narrow steps of the mezzanine to light candles fifty feet in the air, burning myself with lighters, carrying trays of thirty soy pots up and down three flights of stairs. I was like a machine, darting across the club music filled dinning room toward a table of Russian mafia with my tray of nine martini glasses brimming with cosmos and sugary cocktails. The more time I spent like this, the less I understood about this place and what the heck I was doing in the middle of it.
I spent the majority of my shifts talking to the forty year old Bengali busboys or the Latino busboys who always flirted with me a little too much. Honestly, it is impossible to feel sexy when working in a poop-colored Asian style vest, so I guess you could say I felt a little detached. My bosses did not get me at all. They were too busy checking their phones for sports stats or that fantasy football thing to ever catch me doing something great. And I was starting to wonder why I would be working at a restaurant where I would never actually want to eat dinner.
My preference is for local, cared-for food in a cozy spot where I feel as comfortable as in a friend’s home. Yeah, why didn’t I work somewhere like that? Oh, the money. I was sure this was one of the only restaurant gigs in the city that could afford me my awesome $1,700/month one-bedroom apartment on 7th Avenue and 14th Street, while also supporting my sudden impulse for designer coats, vintage boots, and eating out. It lasted just over a year like this. By the end, I was a lost lamb. This was where I needed to be, I convinced myself, that if I persevered I would be good at my job, a serious sales lady, and an asset to the restaurant. And yet I had more “sit downs” with management than I care to remember, going over and over how much I sucked in their eyes—no matter what the sales numbers revealed.
Then, finally the greatest thing happened… They fired me! I believe it was something greater than me, a greater waiter power from beyond that held up my N train between stations for twenty five minutes that day, and—whatever it was—shook my core and reawakened my talents, my self-esteem and awareness. Of course they tried to deny my unemployment, but I’ll save that story for another day.
I salvaged my soul with a great new gig—a smaller place, newly-opened downtown with a well-respected chef at the helm and a bunch of cool cats carefully crafting cocktails with homemade ingredients, fresh juices, and a healthy dash of charm. This is the kind of place where people come specifically to hang out with their bartender, who might also happen to be one of the owners. I see so many of the same faces—friends of friends who greet me each time with kind words and kisses on the cheek and leave me every visit with a generous tip and more kissing.
Maybe I flirt too much now. I do dance around a lot, and my dress is pretty short. The 50’s/60’s music and the good people inspire it in me. My bosses are fond of my dancing and pleased with my close-to-perfect menu acumen. My bartenders like to feed me shots because they know I will dance more and work harder and happier after a Jameson. Many of my coworkers are now my friends. We can bitch about more than just work while at work, dine out together, and share cabs.
Now I have the pleasure of taking care of a lot of industry people who in turn invite me to their restaurant where I am practically treated like royalty. All hail the Princess Leah!! May you serve her unlimited free glasses of Prosecco and send to her the most delectable dishes from your kitchen’s bounty without putting them on the bill. And so it goes on like this. Yes…my inordinate shopping addiction has been curbed, but I think it stemmed from my unhappiness anyway. I only ever see small bits of food go to waste. Where once I was drowning in a sea of miso-glazed fish product, fake boobies, and ego maniacs, I have been redeemed by real industry people who get it—beautiful, crazy people who love what they do and love to give me hugs and kisses and free drinks.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
No one knows better where to find good drinks and cool bars than the people who work in them. So, the staff at Shiftdrink has scoured the city to bring you the finest cocktails and inside information on the staff behind the scenes at the city’s hottest venues. Introducing: The Drink List. For this week’s installment, we visited two East Village bars serious about mixology and here is what we drank:
THE ELLISON COCKTAIL
Charles Hardwick (formerly of Mercer Kitchen) created the cocktail menu at Blue Owl and named this drink for the novelist Ralph Ellison, author of “Invisible Man.” The Ellison features Hendricks Gin infused with rose petals, muddled mint, and cucumber shaken with fresh lime and bitters. The refreshing cucumber flavor and herbal tinge from the mint made the drink taste almost nutritious.
Our affable bartender, Gene (who vaguely resembles Vin Diesel), proudly sampled us on several other Blue Owl signatures including the spicy “Rucker Gimlet” (named for the famous Harlem parks director), a base of Hangar One Kefir Lime Vodka mixed with a chili-pepper infused apple liquor and a Demara sugared rim. We also dug the “Jules Winfield” (after Samuel L. Jackson’s character in Pulp Fiction) made with Makers Mark Bourbon shaken with Marie Brizzard apricot liquor and fresh orange juice. As we were leaving, a jazz band was setting up to play and a small audience had trickled in on this quiet Sunday evening. Blue Owl features live music, a menu of charcuterie and cheeses, and a small back room for private parties. This would be a terrific place for a first date, since the soundtrack is mellow and there’s lots of space to cozy up with a thought-provoking beverage and some intimate conversation.
THE OAXACA OLD FASHIONED
At Death & Co. off Avenue A, we sampled this riff on the classic Old Fashioned made with two types of tequila (El Tesoro Reposado and Los Amantes Joven Mezcal), agave nectar, and Angostura bitters, garnished with a flaming twist of orange. While preparing the glass with a single two-inch cube of ice, Alex, our bartender, lit a match under the orange peel (to release the essential oils) before setting it on fire and dropping it into the cocktail. He explained the bar’s name is a play on a temperance movement slogan suggesting that people who waste their lives away drinking are living in the “company of death.” The sweetness of the agave and the spice kick from the bitters made us welcome death’s company. The interior evokes the inside of a funeral home, cavernous, somber and dimly lit, with spooky candelabras that line the walls. We fired up a couple of small plates too, Chicken Empanadas with a spicy aioli and a creamy Duck Quesadilla; the spicy Latin flavors worked well with the strong tequila. I’ll admit that after a while the dungeon-like environment gets a little depressing, but it’s nothing that another round of precision drinks won’t make you quickly forget.
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
HOW IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
Actually pretty good. Always something different and tasty. HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
Mixed, celebs here and there with a lot of regulars. WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
Lunch 12-4, Dinner 6-12am, out by 12:30 (1am the latest). HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
Very flexible towards your schedule.
<HOW IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
Actually pretty good. Always something different and tasty. HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
Mixed, celebs here and there with a lot of regulars. WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
Lunch 12-4, Dinner 6-12am, out by 12:30 (1am the latest). HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
Very flexible towards your schedule.IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
Yes and management allow you to post a “preferred schedule”. No $ is necessary HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Very light. WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
Very cool. IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
Not at all. He is very cool. Down to earth guy. NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK?
Pos: great staff, flex schedule.
Neg: money is sometimes questionable WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM?
Point system. ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Both. IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
NO. DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
Yes and their specialty drinks are sick too.
That’s all for now, tune in next week for an all new INSIDE SCOOP.
10. People who say “You shouldn’t have let us order so much food” when they finish everything.
9. People who ask for drinks with no ice.
8. People who change their order after you’ve already put it in.
7. People who say “We are fine with water” when you offer cocktails.
6. People who want to “Fire up some app-ies.”
5. People who ask for black napkins.
4. People who ask “How do you stay so thin?”
3. People who say “We haven’t even looked” a half an hour after being seated.
2. People who wave you closer to them before they order.
1. People who ask for Blue Cheese Olives.
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
The American Heritage Dictionary defines the term “foodie” as “a person who has an ardent or refined interest in food.” Well, with all due respect to the folks at American Heritage, I have waited on my share of foodies and have yet to meet one whose taste or decorum I would describe as “refined.” Dining out has become a new form of evangelism, and foodies pray at the Church of Frank Bruni.
Expectations of service, too, have risen astronomically, resulting in a dramatic spike in heartache for waitpersons. And thanks to the proliferation of websites such as E-gullet and Chowhound, foodies pollute the blogosphere with their opinions about restaurant experiences and chew the fat about food culture. Things have gotten out of hand. And someone has to do something. Here, I have composed a short guide to help you identify the threat. Early detection is crucial. Know your enemy. If you come prepared, I guarantee they will not ruin your night.
Foodies will respond to your recommendations by saying they “already make that dish at home.”
If you recommend a dish such as “Applewood Smoked Bacon and Gorgonzola Gougeres with Calmyrna Fig Gastrique,” and the guest replies, “Yeah, but I can make that dish at home anytime”—it’s probably a foodie. I suggest falsely boosting their ego by saying, “Wow, that’s really impressive. I want to have dinner at your house!” Only a well-seasoned foodie will detect the sarcasm in your voice. Most are totally clueless and will praise you in their food blog.
Foodies always ask about the chef’s “Signature Dishes.”
It’s hard to make it through a shift without an overzealous foodie annoying you with this term. Offering any insight into the popular items on your menu is a dangerous proposition since once you recommend anything to a foodie—as indicated above—they will tell you they can already make it. The best defense is usually to neutralize the threat by saying “The chef loves all his dishes equally.” Once they realize that you are not complicit, they will leave you alone. Of course, they will inevitably diss your service in their blog, but, don’t worry, nobody reads it anyway.
Foodies get off on knowing the intimate details of the food they consume.
Foodies obsess over minutiae. “Are these farm-raised porcini mushrooms?” they ask. You didn’t know mushrooms grew on farms. Over dinner at CraftSteak, you might hear one foodie say to another: “You have to try the Wagyu Ribeye. It’s totally organic,” says one. “I know,” the other answers, “They feed the cows beer and sake, so they’re happier!” Chefs are filling their menus with food porn to tantalize horny foodies with terms like “Kobe Beef,” “Montauk Dayboat Scallops,” and “Hudson Valley Foie Gras.” If a foodie becomes visibly aroused while you are describing a dish, get a manager.
Foodies love name-dropping high-end restaurants over dinner at a low-end place.
Any place they cannot afford is usually overrated. A typical foodie critique begins with some random anecdote like: “This reminds of a dish I had at Per Se—which, for the record, is totally overrated. I would never go back.” This conversation usually occurs over appetizers at Chat-N-Chew. Other examples of the high-end/low-end phenomenon: dogging out a soba dish at Masa over Pad Thai at Republic, expressing outrage over the $50 foie gras burger at DB over lunch at Corner Bistro, and insisting that Babbo isn’t worth the hype while chowing down on the unlimited pasta bowl at the Times Square Olive Garden.
Foodies ask questions they already know the answer to just to impress the waiter and their guests.
Foodies need attention. A common tactic is to lob a food-related question at the waiter and then preempt him/her with the answer. Take this example: “So…uh…what makes the black spaghetti black?” they ask. You are about to answer when they blurt out, “Is it squid ink?” A perfect shill, you acknowledge they are correct, and they triumphantly turn to their guests and say, “I knew it!” In another episode, a foodie stops you urgently, “Excuse me—what size soft shell crabs are these?” You have no clue, and before you have a chance to answer they say, “They must be hotels.” “I’ll check with the chef,” you say with as much warmth as you can muster. “No, it’s O.K. I was just curious.” Of course you were.
--Warren Peace Senior Editor
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
No one knows better where to find good drinks and cool bars than the people who work in them. So, the staff at Shiftdrink has scoured the city to bring you the finest cocktails and inside information on the staff behind the scenes at the city’s hottest venues. Introducing: The Drink List. For this week’s installment, we dressed up and dressed down at two excellent West Village restaurants serious about drink-ology. Here is what we drank:
GUAVACITA
We asked Kwame, the bartender at Cabrito on Carmine Street, about Pisco, one of the ingredients in the “Guavacita.” Without hesitating, he snags two shot glasses from behind the bar and pours us each a taste of this potent Chilean rum. In the “Guavacita,” Pisco is shaken vigorously with yellow chartreuse, guava, lime juice, egg whites and Peychaud bitters and poured into a small cylindrical tumbler (pictured). It looks like a frothy, oversized shot of Pepto-Bismol but the taste makes you feel like it’s spring break in Cabo.
Cabrito’s resident mixologist, Allen Katz, curates a list of over forty tequilas, ten mezcals, and a smart roster of mostly Mexican-themed cocktails like the “Sandia” (mezcal, watermelon, and Campari), which tasted a little too much like a watermelon Jolly Rancher. We preferred the “Bee’s Knees,” a blend of London dry gin, fresh citrus, peach honey syrup, and peach bitters. Despite the effort placed into its specialty drinks, Kwame says Cabrito still serves mostly margaritas. We’ll admit, we kinda wanted one. If you get hungry, fire up an order of creamy guacamole or finish with some homemade churros and chocolate. We were too scared to order baby goat (“cabrito” in Spanish). Maybe next time.
THE BARTLETT
If you’re feeling fancier, stroll south a block to Downing and sample some of the classics offered at the bar at Mas (Farmhouse). Styled to evoke a Provençal barn on the exterior, the interior is sleek with a modern elegance that would be a comfortable setting for a romantic date or a discreet breakup. Beyond their delicious Manhattan, Sazerac, and Champagne Cocktail, we loved “The Bartlett,” a gentle blend of pear-infused vodka, fresh lime, pear liquor, and a top of Authentique, a French sparkling pear cider. A scoop of poached pear rests on a long wooden skewer akimbo in the glass. You expect the first sip to deliver that ubiquitous kick of sour, instead, “The Bartlett” surprises with the clean, balanced flavor of a well-ripened pear. The poached pear garnish, which they simmer in white port and vanilla bean, is a much tastier reward for finishing the drink than a sad, soggy olive in a dirty martini.
Jesse, our bartender, collaborated to create the drink menu at Mas. While chilling a martini glass, he confesses sheepishly to giving up alcohol for lent. Looking around at all these beautiful alcoholic confections and the shelves of delicious spirits the likes of St. George Absinthe, we admired his restraint. The cocktail list relies heavily on subtle touches like house-made orange bitters (ladled from a mason jar), brandy-soaked cherries, and ginger-infused simple syrup. Both establishments were remarkably industry-friendly. Maybe we were just drunk on a Monday, but great service always seems to make a good drink taste even better.
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
Last night, Minneapolis bartender Chris Raph of the Shout House set out to smash the world record of 389 cocktails served in one hour. His personal goal was to serve over 500, raising money for the homeless in the process. In the end, he served up 662 drinks.
Finding a good bar, and even better a great bartender is no easy task, but at shiftdrink.com we are committed to exploring the city in search of “Nirvana” leaving no bar untouched and hopefully along the way making new friends.
It was Late last night and we were stumbling around in the Lower East side, we came across Bar Verlaine, as we planted ourselves on the barstools, we knew we where home…..
How long have you been slinging drinks?
Seven years
Are you a product of work experience or Bartending School?
I am a seasoned drinker who cares. So, I guess work experience.
What’s your biggest pet peeve behind the bar?
When people mouth the drinks they want. I DON’T READ LIPS!
Do you have a signature cocktail? If so, do you mind sharing it with us?
Yes, it’s a shot I created. I call it “Enano “.
Tequila, lime, mint, simple syrup and a splash of pineapple.
Do you think there is a difference between a bartender and mixologist?
Yes, a mixologist cares.
Do you have a favorite bar that you frequent a lot? If so, what’s makes it so special? vol de nuit. A Belgium beer hall on west 4th. I love beer.
How do you feel about buy-backs?
They are great as long as they are not abused by both bartenders and customers.
What are the best days and hours to come visit you?
Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. 8-12 pm. We do get pretty busy.
What should guests be tipping per drink?
Standard is $1 a drink but if you want to get noticed you better drop $coin.
What would be the best way to get on the good side of a bartender?
Be patient and show some love, A lot of love$$$.
Do you get shift drinks at the end of your shift or during the shift?
I drink all night long. Yeah, What a country!
You’re probably frantically rifling through your records right now, trying to get your taxes filed before the dreaded April 15th deadline. Waiters who work at cash-in-hand restaurants are usually frantically working to cover their chunky tax bill, others more fortunate have been taxed heavily year round and expect beaucoup refunds. Whatever side you are on, here are a five, count ‘em five, helpful hints from your friends at Shiftdrink to keep Uncle Sam off your back. Our advice: Don’t f*ck with Sammy. He can be a big prick when he thinks you owe him some money:
1. Use a reputable accountant.
Unless you are filing just a straight 1040 with no itemized deductions, it’s well worth a coupla hundo to hire a tax preparer to file for you. Too often in restaurant jobs, everyone uses the same cowboy accountant, through word of mouth, and they all end up with audit notices. Try to find a CPA who has experience with restaurant clients and stay away from the chains like H & R Block.
2. Keep detailed records.
It’s unwise to throw away any documents related to either proof of income or expenditure. If you tip-out to other employees and that amount is not accounted for accurately on your W-2, make a tip-log. If you are claiming deductions for business expenses, keep detailed receipts or try to use the same credit or debit card for these purchases so at the end of the year you have an easier time getting organized.
3. Whatever pursuits you deduct must show income.
The IRS is particularly stingy about allowing deductions for expenses you claim for business pursuits outside the restaurant (like struggling actors). If you cannot prove you have earned income in this pursuit, they may consider it a “hobby” and disallow your deductions.
4. Error to the side of caution.
The IRS can and will examine your return up to three years after the date of filing. If they find you are deficient, they will assess penalties and compounding interest retroactively over that three-year period. Often those penalties and interest will result in as much debt to you than the principal they determine you owe. Why not pay now, if you’re going to end up paying later?
5. Always have cash reserves in case of emergency.
Don’t wait to scramble at the end of the year to meet your tax bill. Be financially prepared to pay your taxes by putting away money each week. If you can afford to, start a savings account exclusively in case of an audit. If you are fortunate to receive a big refund, don’t blow it on frivolous things. Use it to open an IRA account, or nest it away in case the IRS has a dispute with your tax return.
Once in a while, information comes along that is priceless. With so many restaurants in Manhattan, it can become quite daunting looking for a great restaurant to work in, not to mention the competition from fellow applicants, but behold shift drinkers, you can call us the Gatekeepers, for we are about to share with you the “Top grossing restaurants in NYC.” So put you’re networking skills to use, (seduce a hostess/bartender, offer shiftdrinks to management) and start making serious “dollars”.
Cheers and good luck. http://www.rimag.com/info/CA6649421.html
A “campo,” in Italian, is a field or place where local people can gather. Campo, on Broadway and 112th Street, is also a gathering place but geared toward a different kind of local.When you approach the restaurant, a large outdoor seating area tempts you to stay outdoors, and, on a nice day, I know I would. May I suggest, though, that you venture inside at least for a moment? Otherwise you might miss the gorgeous tin ceiling, the fireplace and faux farmhouse door that frame an eclectic variety of antique chandeliers. You’d also miss the walnut wine cabinet and the central farmhouse table where you can sit communally with eleven of your nearest and dearest.
Whether you choose to sit outside or in, consider starting with a cucumber mojito. I say this as someone who generally doesn’t like cucumbers. Here, the coolness of the muddled cucumbers marries with the tartness of the lime, whose acidity is tempered by the addition of simple syrup. Somehow, it works. Trust me. Don’t forget to have some of their house-made foccacia with a little eggplant caponata, too, while you peruse the menu. For five dollars you’ll be glad you did.
If you happen to like pizza, the grilled pizzas are thin-crusted with whole wheat dough and topped with a Bel Paese and Pecorino Romano blend. One of the best pizzas I’ve ever had—Prosciuto, fig, arugala, and balsamic—is unfortunately not on the menu! I think if enough people clamor they might put it on.
I had this with the Kris Pinot Nero (a bright pinot noir from the Alto Adige region of Italy - $10/glass). The sweetness of the figs and balsamic reduction smacked up against the richness of the cheese and meat to create a mouth-enriching experience. Campo’s pizzas are easy on your wallet, too.
I continued sipping the Pinot Nero with the Duck Risotto ($15). The crisp kernels of rice were rich and succulent on the inside. Sitting amid the gooey Parmigiano, duck and wild mushroom mixture, each mouthful was beautifully decadent. The wine was a beautiful foil that kept the richness of the dish in check.
If the risotto sounds sexy, don’t forget to try the Arancini appetizer ($7.50). These risotto balls are blended with peas and melted fresh mozzarella, coated in panko (Japanese bread crumbs), and deep-fried. When you bite into the crisp outside the creamy inside explodes in your mouth. The marina dipping sauce balances it all out beautifully.
My main course special of Jumbo Diver Scallops was served with heirloom tomatoes, corn and baby basil tossed with balsamic and olive oil. It was paired with a DeLoach Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley ($13/glass). The unctuousness of the sea scallops was balanced by the acidity of the balsamic and tomatoes. I was a little surprised by the pairing, but the wine complemented the food in a fun and quirky sort of way.
Since I know you must have dessert, may I suggest the street-fair standard…zeppoli? While I’m sure you’ve tasted the gooey and undercooked type you may not have had it crisp on the outside while soft and doughy on the inside. For the six dollars you’ll thank me—and did I mention I generally don’t eat dessert?
—Lisa Carley Contributing Writer
Campo Restaurant
2888 Broadway (112th/113th)
212.864.1143
www.camponyc.com
Sometimes it's good, most of the time it's bad. Whatever it is, you have to eat it. The Staff Meal.
This week we visit the Buddhist Behemoth TAO in midtown to find out how their staff is fed at lunchtime. Fresh sushi hand rolls, you say? Think not, friends. Take a peek at this pathetic excuse for Steak & Eggs they ate. Anyone want to pick up Monday lunch? Yecch.
We love that sad, lonely banana in the background, too. Obviously good nutrition for their staff is a priority.
Tune in to Shiftdrink to find out how waitstaff around the city are being fed and
pictures of your favorite or most repulsive family meals.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The Inside Scoop brings those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team Shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
This week we ventured to The Mermaid Inn, owned by Danny Abrams, and this is what we found.
HOW BAD IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
There is the ever natural appearance of F-you Rice (white with flecks of carrot) over which gruel of some class may be ladled, but there is often a tasty pasta and occasionally a non-iceberg type salad.
HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
A big mix; lot's of local 'East Villagers' (read: fratty finance dudes and high tone fashion students who moved in when the place got 'hot'). Since the 'Troubled Times' we've seen a lot of cats I remember from the three star days, but over all a younger set of people, a smattering of any part of Manhattan and North Brooklyn, and a decent amount of tourists.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
The waiters do opening and closing, which keeps the shifts between 6-7 hours. Bartenders open and close.
HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
No lunch, no brunch (except at the Upper West Side locale, they do brunch)
IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
No money gets exchanged and if one plans in advance, there is usually little trouble getting someone to cover.
HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Pretty basic and simple. No 75 napkins required to be bagged and signed by a manager.
WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
Actor Central. There are maybe two on staff who don't have headshots at the ready.
IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
New Chef with good street creds who seems pretty calm and deliberate.
NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK?
Jeans and a t-shirt, baby! On the negative side, on a totally banal note: the higher the actor quotient, the lower the sports fan numbers. I feel so alone.
WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE?
It's a pool; the floor is separate from the bar. The point system is broken down by time on the floor with the bar taking a cut from the floor for service.
ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Cash is dispersed at end of night; credit card tips get accumulated on a weekly check.
IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
No.
DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
Everybody gets one at the end of the shift. Second drink is half price.
Want to contribute an Inside Scoop for Shiftdrink?
As we skip down the broken-up Brooklyn sidewalk to Sweetwater Restaurant, North 6th street teems around us with youngsters out and about to catch a concert, buy a record, a drink, or maybe a pair of vintage boots. The potential for distraction is fierce, but tonight I am looking to feast, so I remain impervious to all the beautiful, exciting people. Etched glass doors greet our hungry eyes with the numbers 105. Bar and grill glow, and I know I will be eating meat tonight.
My lips fizz as I indulge in my favorite pre-dinner beverage, Campari and Soda. It whets my appetite as I spy on what our neighboring guests are grazing on. Dark corner booths house lovers who feast on the evening's special—rib eye steak imported from Uruguay. Glasses clink at a nearby communal table shared by an old couple and a few noisy hipsters. Waiters, only distinguishable by their aprons, look very much like the clientele: fresh, fun, and spirited.
At the bar, Patrick assists us with our wine, something bold and bright from the Valle d'Aosta. Glasses arrive and we let the wine breathe while we peruse the dinner menu. Knowing that we will be sharing plates allows us more freedom to dance around the menu, and my companion and I rarely have to compromise on what we each want to eat. If we get indecisive, we just order it all.
Our charming waiter, Matthew, explains the specials: bruschetta with prosciutto, grilled asparagus, Parmigiano Reggiano, and truffle oil—SOLD. We begin with a delightful spinach salad, followed by a rack of lamb, cooked medium rare. When we express concern over maybe having ordered too much starch he offers to substitute the parsley mash for haricot verts. Perfectly cooked lamb arrives and we feel no shame in eating with our hands. Gnawing on the bones is acceptable, in fact appreciated by most chefs.
Upon the suggestion of our server, we order gnocchi with chive cream. They arrive in a piping hot ceramic dish with golden brown tops floating in bubbling cream. These gnocchi are fluffy pillows of dangerous decadence. Eat at your own risk. We clean our plates with crusty bread and our palates with acid, alcohol, and berries.
Pablo, Sweetwater’s owner and maitre d', roams the room, mingling with the customers who all seem to be his friends. Regulars and neighbors are the standard, stopping by for a drink, a leisurely dinner, or just to say hello. Pablo seems stress-free, happy to talk to us about how his Argentinean culture has influenced not only the menu but also the family style and feeling of his restaurant. I rave how his gnocchi has changed my opinion of the dish itself. He tells of a tradition in Argentina where families eat gnocchi on the 29th of each month—the day before payday—and sometimes leave a bill or coin under the plate for hopes of prosperity in the coming month.
I absorb the history of the restaurant, the remains of a Polish diner from the 1930's: pressed tin ceilings, funky tile floors, dimly-lit sconces, a chalk board with scores from some kind of "front of house vs. back of house" contest. The back door leads to a quaint garden that looks down into the kitchen where the magic is happening. I peek in to see the kitchen at work: "pick up," "order fire," and food runners dashing in and out.
We return to the table, savor the last drop of wine, and Pablo tempts us with one of Nina's desserts. Nina is his wife and the pastry chef, and her flaky apple tart exemplifies how the restaurant they’ve created is an extension of their home. After dessert, I indulge my curiosity for amari. Belly full and head fuzzy, I can't help but smile. I ask Pablo if I can buy the antique telephone hanging behind me. He smiles with a chuckle and I decide to drop the issue, apparently too much wine to be taken seriously about my love for antiques. We say thank you, kiss goodnight on both cheeks, and head toward the door.
I stumble across a dog resting on the front steps. Rita I am told is the mascot, guard, and friend of this restaurant. She stirs to drink from her water bowl nearby, lets me rub her head, and sends us out into the night.
—Liz Rosen Contributing Writer
Sweetwater Restaurant
105 N 6th St
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 963-0608 www.sweetwaterny.com
Sometimes it's good, most of the time it's bad. Whatever it is, you have to eat it. The Staff Meal.
This week we sneak a peek at the family meal at Franny's in Park Slope where the cooks have serious pedigrees (Ducassee, Per Se and Blue Hill Stone Barns among others), and we have it on good word from our anonymous source that they don't f*ck around when it comes to cooking for the staff. As you can see, they ate well on St. Paddy's Day. We're so jealous.
Tune in to Shiftdrink to find out how waitstaff around the city are being fed and
pictures of your favorite or most repulsive family meals.
Let me make it very clear that I am not one of those passion-for-cooking, celebrity chef wannabe types. I’ve been slinging hash in one form or another since I was 16. It's never been something that I really loved or aspired to, but it's always been a quick and readily available source of income. Not real income like Prius-down-payment income but keep-the-lights on income. I didn't grow up hard either. Ph.D.'s abound in my family tree. My dad was a chemistry professor, my mom a radiologist. Both had doctorates by the time they were my age. My brother Edward is an astrophysicist. My brother Jerome is an agronomist. My brother David is an Ethnomusicologist (Figure it out, ethno+music+ologist, he studies the -ology of ethno music, duh) ...I ended up in the kitchen.
God knows why, and so do I. I needed to get out of the house and make money at an early age for my own reasons, which are none of your business yet. In a kitchen I can move really, really fast and have the ability to keep my head in chaotic situations. I have a high pain threshold and don't mind heat, smoke, burns, lack of eyebrows and arm hair, long shifts and night shifts. I am very good at processing a lot of information very quickly. I'm messy as hell and lazy to boot, insensitive and crass, but when that line gets stacked, boy, I'm a human fucking CPU with crazy spider kung-fu robot arms. And, while I didn't go to culinary school, I know and love good food.
As for passion, let me tell you, I have a passion for drinking and sleeping in. I have a passion for shaving once a week, cursing and talking shit. I have a passion for wangling my way out of a shift on a day’s notice so my shitty band can play a show even though I forgot to put in a time-off request. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m grateful to have learned a trade. Knowing how to cook is a life skill that stays with you till the end. It’s nice when times are tight financially to whip up a nice carbonara or pot-au-feu on pennies while your similarly strapped roommates poison their bodies with (gag) Kraft Mac-n-Cheese.
I mean, come on, the great cuisines of the world were almost entirely developed by and for the poor. It’s really not hard to eat well on no money. It’s also nice to wow girlfriend’s parents on holidays, when the kitchen becomes a nightmare for the untested and fragile civilian. Who’d have thought, they say, that fuckup with the tattoos and the scuzzy demeanor is actually good for something. At least that’s what I tell myself.
And damn my eyes if I were to ever forget the friends I’ve made over the years in restaurants I’ve worked. I’ve been lucky enough to find a group of people that became nothing less than my surrogate family—people who were there for me on and off the clock, who would gladly give me the shirt off their back (or at least smoke me out) at the drop of a hat. Can you say the same about your Buddy Dwayne in cubicle C? But don’t get the impression that if I had an out I wouldn’t take it. Fuck yeah, give me a suit and tie, give me health insurance, give me that air conditioned office and weekends. Give me a reason to shower in the morning.
Unfortunately, the things that lead one into a cooking career tend to be self-reinforcing. A feedback loop grows over the years—mannerisms become coarser, dispositions surlier. Tattoos begin to metastasize across the arms. I mean, what the fuck? You’re branding yourself like a goddamn doggie every day anyway over the range or grill. What’s a little ink? And, before you know it, you can only really connect with other cooks. You don’t even bother to apply for other kinds of jobs, because they don’t make sense to you. When you interview for that suit-and-tie job, the first thing they want to know is: Why the fuck are you here?
It brings to mind this kid who got hired on the line at a restaurant I worked at a couple of years ago. He was a really sweet guy, but slow as shit and not too quick up top either. He had sworn off smoking weed in order to save his lungs, but still ate pot brownies everyday, not exactly conducive to functioning in a fast-paced kitchen. He just couldn’t hack it. Even I used to scream at him. RICH (not his name), WHAT THE FUCK! YOU’RE RUINING EVERYBODY’S FUCKING NIGHT! I would snarl as he attempted to plate a basket of fries. He tried, poor dude, and we tried to teach him, or at least work around him. Eventually he got canned.
A couple months later he rolled into the restaurant in a three-piece suit, with a Bloomingdale’s tie around his neck and a cutie on his arm. His gaze was sharp and clear, he spoke evenly and intelligently, and his diction was correct and polished. “Yeah,” he said, sipping his Grenache, “I had to sell out and join the corporate world. You know, I hate working someplace with no integrity or creative aspect. I get paid to steal from poor people. But hey, you know, it’s nice to make that cash. It’s nice to actually feel good about my future.”
The other cooks and I exchanged sheepish glances, checking out each other’s stubble, bandannas, dreadlocks, and stained coats, our teeth crying for the attention of a competent dentist. Wow, maybe he wasn’t the burnout we thought. When was our ship gonna come in? Turns out he was a telemarketer in the airless, windowless basement of some God-awful cell phone company, working in a florescent cubicle for ten dollars an hour. Corporate sellout indeed. The moral of the story is that wearing a suit-and-tie every day doesn’t mean you aren’t getting screwed.
In the end, I think I’m still cooking because on the line you don’t have to think about tomorrow that much. A good kitchen preps for today and today only, so everything will always be fresh. If I walk away, it’ll still be there when I come back. If something happens with my music, I can always walk away. At least that’s what I tell myself.
No one knows better where to find good drinks and cool bars than the people who work in them. So, the staff at Shiftdrink has scoured the city to bring you the finest cocktails and inside information on the staff behind the scenes at the city’s hottest venues. Introducing: The Drink List. For this week’s installment, we visited the mix-masters at Macao Trading Co. in Tribeca and here is what we drank:
DR. FUNK
Watching Jay, our bartender, create the “Dr. Funk,” a rum-based cocktail, feels a little like being seated a chef’s table. He carefully layers the flavors in a Collins glass, starting with muddled mint, fresh strawberries, cucumber and lime, and finishing with Mekong Thai Rum, a dash of homemade grenadine and a splash of ginger beer. When you’re sure he’s finally ready to relinquish the drink, he adds a float of absinthe like a saucier putting the finishing touches on a signature dish. The first sip tastes like the redheaded stepchild of a Dark-and-Stormy and a Mojito.
Of course, the mileu is pan-Asian, so in addition to Thai rum you’ll find lots of little exotic touches on Macao’s drink menu like house-made 5-Spice bitters and Chai-infused Vermouth. Jay, who also co-owns the bar and is a principal partner in Employees Only, explained that the Dr. Funk was an old drink recipe from a Trader Vic’s menu he found—Jamaican Rum, pomegranate syrup, soda and Pernod float—popular back in the day when tiki lounges were the rage. Once Jay gets going talking about mixology, it’s hard to stop him. “We take our cocktails seriously, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously,” Jay said with a Zach Braff-ish boyish grin, “It should be fun.”
THE PORTONIC
No drink better represents the Portuguese roots of Macao—originally a Portuguese colony—than the “Portonic.” The bar’s emerging hipster cocktail, the Portonic happens also—not coincidentally—to be the cheapest specialty cocktail on the menu (11 bucks). It’s the type of drink that old Portuguese men would have sitting around a card table, Jay says. The drink features Poçass white port over ice with sliced green grapes and tonic, garnished with neon slices of bitter melon. It goes down like white sangria—fast. We all agreed the Portonic would be the perfect summer round and vowed to make a return trip in warmer weather. The cocktail menu is constantly changing and all of Macao’s bartenders have input in the changes, Dushan, another partner, told us. We were fortunate to sneak a peek at (and a taste of) a new cocktail Jay created named for a Brazilian soccer player, The “Cicinho.” You’ll notice that none of the cocktails on the specialty list at Macao Trading Co. are vodka-based. Why, we asked Jay? “Vodka is like chicken breast,” he said, “or Dushan calls it tofu.” The restaurant also has wide selection of chino-latino small plates great for bar dining like Bacalao Fried Rice devised by David Waltuck of Chanterelle. We didn’t notice any chicken breast or tofu on that menu either.
THE CICINHO
MACAO TRADING CO.
311 Church Street (bet. Walker and Lispenard)
212-431-8750 www.macaonyc.com
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
Michael Lagnese and Jonathan Cohen tended bar together for over ten years at Union Square Café before they decided it was time to stop working for “The Man.” With forty years of combined restaurant experience, they opened the 8th Street Wine Cellar on a block once known for shoe stores. These days, the shoe stores are all but extinct and the new West 8th Street is transforming something more like St. Marks. On a recent visit I sat down at the long graphite bar and chatted with the owners. After perusing the list, I ordered a glass of Kung-Fu Girl Riesling, an off dry white from a quirky producer in Washington State (10 bucks). The subterranean space has the air of an old speakeasy. As I later found out, the storefront of 28 West 8th once led to an alleyway entrance for bootleggers during Prohibition
Jonny and Mickey—as their friends call them—look a bit alike under the lampshades that hang over the bar (and always seem a notch too bright). Most nights, they bartend together in faded t-shirts with cartoon logos like Mighty Mouse and Felix The Cat; both have closely shaved heads—so the effect is like watching a rehearsal of the Blue Man Group. I discuss with them the long journey from front-of-the-house to master-of-the-house. They both, coincidently, put themselves through college working in restaurants and have been in and out of the business ever since. They are passionate about hospitality and know how to take care of their guests. In developing the concept, they sought to create an environment for people to wind down after a long night—the type of bar they wish they had when they worked at Union Square. The music is soothing—if not a little too reliant on the late 90’s soundtrack—but it never imposes itself. They hope that their bar will click with industry types looking for an oasis after work. It already has.
Jonny gladly pours me a taste of a 2006 Garnacha Rose from Ochoa when I ask about it; it’s not quite my style, a little too funky on the nose, so I elect for a crisp Sancerre from Jolivet instead (11 bucks). Their compact wine list offers about fifty bottles from all over the world, fifteen selections by the glass, including bubbly, and a few half bottles. Unlike many wine bars that have no license for hard liquor, 8th Street Wine Cellar has a great selection of top shelf spirits. Don’t be afraid to drink from the bottom shelf either. Their well is stocked smartly with throwback bottles like Gordon’s Gin and Smirnoff Vodka. If you’re feeling randy, ask for a scotch on the rocks—you’ll get a tumbler filled with Old Smuggler (8 bucks). Martinis, their specialty, are served in a healthy cone stem filled to the brim—a refreshing sight in the age of the ever-shrinking glassware and the chintzy pour.
The back bar, which serves a limited menu designed by Chef Carlo Soranno, is equipped with two Jumbo George Foreman grills (for seasonal panini and Ahi Tuna “sliders”) and a small kitchen to prepare fun munchies like Pigs-in-a-Blanket and Littleneck Clams with Bagna Cauda Butter. They are particularly proud of the toilet they installed, too, which supposedly can flush eighty golf balls. I found it hard to believe when I used it. I’d say thirty tops. I was too drunk at that point to argue. I pay my bill, and it feels for a good cause. I wasn’t giving my money to some faceless bar owner who spends the weekends in the Hamptons and shows up once in a while to drink for free and chat up the ladies. Leaving there felt like a visit to a small-town doctor; Jonny and Mickey know how to treat you because they understand what ails you. They’re industry guys, they’re there every night, and they’re more than happy to write you a prescription.
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
Don't open a restaurant just because you think you can cook well at home—at least that's what owners, Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan, of Cendrillon restaurant in SOHO warnTheir chic restaurant, which offers sophisticated Filipino pan-fusion cuisine, has been open on Mercer Street since 1995.. We believe them when they say that the past 11 years haven't been a smooth ride But in the midst of hardships—from opening the restaurant to maintaining its overall quality on a daily basis—they've come across many unexpected joys too, such as crossing paths with customers who are now their very good friends.
I had the chance to speak to the very hospitable couple and below is the conversation we had as they shared their experiences as chefs, restaurants owners and recipe-inventors.
.If you're ever in the neighborhood, stop in and order the Adobo in Chicken or the Baby Back Ribs—you can't go wrong with either of these two popular dishes. Amy's cookbook, *Memories of Philippine Kitchens*, is now available so if you fall in love with the food and want to try to replicate the fabulous dishes at home, we challenge you to try. Where and what position was your first job in a restaurant or hospitality
environment?
Romy: I started out at The Frog, a now-closed establishment in PA, when the main chef walked out and the owner asked me if I wanted to take over. I’ve been cooking at restaurants since the 1970s in PA, FL and Key West—all of them are now closed. Have you ever had interference from owners with regards to your menu when working at other restaurants?
Yes, and at many of them and I just walked out. What were some of the hardships you faced prior to opening Cendrillon?
Amy: It was a hard sell since filipino food is not as main stream as other cuisines. It required getting people to try new foods and there weren’t very many customers in the beginning. Also, the restaurant’s name was somewhat difficult for people to remember. How often do you walk around the front of your restaurant to examine everything or do you normally stay in the back making sure all goes well in the kitchen?
Amy: All the time. The best part about opening the restaurant is that we’ve met some of the best people here. We’ve made so many good friends with the customers and regular diners. We make sure we check up on everything—especially if customers are enjoying their meal. What is the significance behind the restaurant’s name?
Amy: Cendrillon means “Cinderella” in French. Originally, when we were thinking of names, I wanted to call it after the province my grandmother grew up in, Samablis? We were looking for a pleasant sounding name that had a relation to the filipino cuisine. In the end, we chose Cendrillon because before we started the restaurant, we had been hand-making, bottling and selling flavored vinegars under the name “Cendrillon Vinegars” at food shows. Naturally, the name stuck as I saw Romy doodling the name everywhere. What is your favorite restaurant in NYC that you can always
count on for a good meal?
Sobaya. What is your favorite dish there?
Amy: “I love my eel!”
Romy: “I like to get the soba.” Which other restaurants do you frequent in New York?
We like to go to Asian restaurants like NY Noodletown. One of the problems of trying new restaurants is that we are closed on Mondays, so even though we want to try different places, lots of them are closed that day of the week too. What kinds of food/dishes do you customarily make at home?
Amy: Lamb chops, ground beef and a noodle soup that consists of delicious caramelized beef slices with scallions, watercress, assorted veggies, tofu and a “special ingredient.” The noodle soup is real comfort food, and we collect ingredients from Sunrise. It’s one of my favorite foods and I hope to convince Romy to include it in our restaurant menu this coming winter. We created it just by throwing in a bunch of ingredients we thought would pair well and it turned out great! What is the nicest gesture or comment a customer has made after eating your food?
Amy: After someone ordered and finished a plate of our Chicken Adobo, they said “This is better than my mother’s cooking, but don’t tell her!” Where do you look for inspiration and new ideas for your cuisine?
Workshops? Online? T.V. shows? Other chefs?
Romy: I don’t really get inspiration from specific places or people. I guess maybe reading? It’s mainly trial-and-error…just trying out different ingredients. How important do you think it is to be bilingual in the kitchen? Do you know Spanish?
Amy: It is important, but people find other ways to communicate. I know a few Spanish words. If we were to buy a cookbook for household use, which would you suggest?
We’re fans of books written by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duiguid, such as:
- Flatbreads & Flavors: A Baker’s Atlas
- HomeBaking: The Artful Mix of Flour and Tradition Around The World
- Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A Culinary Journey Through Southeast Asia
- Mangoes and Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through The Great Subcontinent
- Seductions of Rice Is there a culinary event or charity function that you participate in every year (i.e. Beard House or Taste of Tribeca)?
Not at this time. How do you handle diners who are vegetarians, those on a gluten-free diet or have food restrictions? How do you feel about these types of diners?
(some chefs get annoyed or are empathetic and etc.)
Romy: Yeah, vegetarian diners come into our restaurant and we have vegetarian dishes to offer that are very delicious. Will you be opening another restaurant in the near future?
Romy: Perhaps, but there isn’t anything set right now. We are studying San Francisco at the moment as a possibility of opening a place there.
Melody Lan
Contributing Writer
Current positions available:
Nothing at this time.
Cendrillon
45 Mercer Street (SoHo)
NYC
212.343.9012
Directions:
N/R to Prince St.
6 to Spring St.
1/9 to Canal St.
A, C, E to Canal St
In the same way it takes a special kind of grape to produce a good wine, making excellent sake requires a special kind of rice. The secret is to have a variety of rice that boast high starch content in the core of the grain. This way the grain will stay longer during the brewing process, enabling excess oil and protein to be removed. The polishing away of rice grains (milling), removes fat and protein that impede fermentation and cause added flavors.
The five elements involved in sake making are:
- Water
- Rice
- Yeast
- Technical Skill
- Land & Weather Conditions
More than anything else, sake is a result of a brewing/fermentation process that uses rice and lots of water. This process comprises as much as 80% of the final product. But beyond that the technical skill needed lies with the master brewer (toji).
In general there are five different types of sake: Jumai-shu
In this pure rice wine at least 30% of the grain is polished away. It is pure because there is no added distilled alcohol. Honjozo-shu
This style also has at least 30% of the grain polished away, but has a touch of distilled alcohol added. Ginjo-shu
This style has at least 40% of the original grain polished away and is made in a very labor intensive way, fermenting at colder temperatures and for a longer period of time. The flavors are more complex and delicate. This style of sake can also have alcohol added or not. Daiginjo-shu
Here the rice is polished even more, so that no more than 50% of the original size grain remains. Daiginjo brewing process is even more complex and labor intensive and can be made with or without added alcohol. Namazaku
This is sake that has not been pasteurized, and should be stored cold, or the flavor and clarity could suffer. Sake & Temperature
As with all things related, there is a short answer and a long one. Short answer:
Good sake should be enjoyed chilled, while less expensive may be served warm. Long answer:
Sake was traditionally served warm; this is because back in the day sake was much rougher, fuller, sweeter and woodier than it is now. Before glass bottles, sake was stored in wooden casks and as such they took on tremendous woody flavors and aromas. Warming the sake masked a lot of the less-than refined aspects.
But remember, good sake should not be served too cold because then you can not taste the complex flavor.
Embracing a brisk spring evening laced with Mahi Mahi tacos and mango margaritas has to be the best way to forget about one’s responsibilities and the weight of the world. At about 8 PM, I rounded up some willing partners-in-crime and headed to Mercadito on Avenue B. This cozy cantina feels like a lazy Mexican fiesta, while the Diego Rivera on the wall keeps it New York. Weeding through a crowd of people, we squeezed into our table and before we could even start fantasizing about tequila-based libations, Alfredo Sandoval, the owner, greeted us. He primed our palates with some dangerously smooth Siete Leguas añejo tequila and a towered trio of guacamole and warm tortilla chips. As we tucked into the smoky mango and chipotle mix, he regaled us with tales of the famed tequila company’s many awards and legal battles with the corporate giants of Patrón.
Next up was a round of signature margaritas and a ceviche tasting. The incredibly aromatic “Margarita de Jamaica” (hibiscus) was just as beautiful as it was thirst quenching. The succulent Mahi Mahi ceviche with avocado, tomato and chile de arbol sung next to the tart and tangy layers of the “Margarita de Tres Cítricos” (orange, grapefruit, and lime). A personal favorite was the pure transparency of the fresh “Mixto” ceviche (shrimp, octopus, and calamari), which washed over my palate like a pure ocean wave, with the roasted garlic jalapeño broth adding a warm depth.
A parade of tacos danced on the table, each unique treat adding its own special effect. The sautéed crispy chicken in the “Mole” tacos benefited from Chef Patrick Sandoval’s four months in Mexico studying the traditional techniques of preparing this revered sauce. The success of his efforts are obvious in the intensely rich and nutty complexities of his creation. We gleefully ate our way through most of the taco offerings, including the “Camaron” (sweet and tender shrimp with avocado) and the “Pastor” (marinated pork with pickled onion). Last, but not least, was Time Out’s well-deserved winner of “Best Fish Tacos” in New York. The crunchy beer-battered fish melts in your mouth and provides a feeling of savory comfort.
Mercadito’s pièce de résistance is a whole chicken—marinated in a spiced adobo, grilled to juicy perfection, and accompanied by a rustic blend of three corn pico de gallo, and rice and beans. Simply said, it’s the best damn chicken I’ve ever had! Words have not been invented to describe this heavenly bird. I can only hope to convey to the pure bliss that awaits you with at every bite.After some sugary churros and a decadent toasted coconut flan, we were in a blissful state, ready for a little siesta. We toasted one last muddled margarita to a truly successful and relaxing evening. New York was now a little warmer than when we first walked through Mercadito’s door and whatever worries we walked in with…well…mañana.
Mercadito Grove
100 Seventh Ave South
New York, Ny 10014
212-647-0830
www.mercaditony.com
About the Author
Mademoiselle enjoys long walks on the beach, Grand Cru white Burgundy, graphic novels and Stilettos. She spends her evenings convincing people to drink more Champagne and selling endless bottles of American Pinot Noir.
During these cold and shitty months of winter, I pretty much never want to leave my house. On the rare occasion that I do or I get hungry, I don’t want to walk more than a block or two. The wind on 14th Street is bitter and unforgiving. I’m usually home eating a made-to-order salad from Westside Market across the street, or at my neighbor Liz’s apartment on 16th where she is making dinner for us after a brisk jaunt to Chelsea Market. If we are not feeling quite so lazy, we venture out to a small West Village spot near our apartments. When Shiftdrink invited me to dine at Dell’Anima Restaurant, I was already thrilled with the idea of a late night saunter down the street. I threw on a sweater dress and got ready for dinner at 10.
When Liz and I arrive, Dominic, the host, welcomes us. As he takes our coats, I inquire about the possibility of sitting at the chef’s table. He says he thinks two seats will free up around 10:15, so we squeeze into the tall stools at the bar where Clinton, the bartender, pours us two different glasses of sparkling wine, including a unique and incredibly enjoyable beverage, Lambruso Bianco. After cheers-ing and tasting—one must always cheers with bubbles—Clinton hands us menus thinking we are dining at the bar, but moments later Dominic comes over to tell us our seats at the chef’s table are ready. Thanking Clinton and maneuvering out from our seats, I ask Dominic if we should settle the tab/tip and he informs us it’s a pooled house. Fantastico. Alighting upon our new perch directly in front of “the line,” Liz and I notice Josh Hartnett having dinner from our heightened vantage point. I can also see the chef’s neatly arranged and simple mis-en-place, out of which one pan—the butter pan—is nearly empty. I’m thinking I might like this place.
Minutes after sitting we are greeted by another gent who offers help with the extensive Italian wine menu. I realize right away that this man is not our waiter, but it is Joe Campanale, a managing partner of Dell’Anima and former Babbo sommelier. We introduce ourselves and assure Joe we will definitely require his assistance about wine, but would actually like to ask a few questions regarding our menus first. He was more than happy to oblige, and suddenly we are regaled with stories about how the grapefruit salad brings him back to his childhood and about the Risotto Alla Pilota, which is prepared in its own regional style. The “piloti” worked the rice mills in the countryside of Verona and this risotto would be boiled in large pots as family meal for all the workers. Since no one had time to stand around stirring, the result was a crispier, less creamy style of the dish that included whatever meats or sausages were lying around. Now, we also agree that we all love fregula, and that Liz and I do not want to try the octopus even though Joe, our waitress Dana, and someone sitting next to us said it was amazing. If you’re into octopus, I guess, you shouldn’t miss it here.
Finally, with Dana’s input we place our order, and Joe offers to pair wines. First course: Bruschetta, presented with the toasted bread drizzled with oil and its “topping” in a dish on the side. Our spread is of cannelini beans, preserved lemon, the perfect amount of garlic, parsley, and a healthy dash of paprika. Wow. To accompany it, we are served a viscous Sauvignon from Friuli with a discernable pineapple flavor. Next comes a juicy grapefruit salad with fennel and pistachios, which Joe pairs with a rare and special wine from right below the tiny peak of Mont Blanc in the Valle d’Aoste (where Italy borders France). These Prié Blanc vines are not grafted on American rootstock (pre-phylloxera), average about a century old, and grow very low to the ground in the time-honored “pergola bassa” style.
By the third course I am truly charmed with the creamy, smoky, grilled (not fried) sweetbreads and a perfectly salted quail over a bed of fregula, pomegranate seeds, pine nuts, and an insanely savory quail jus. Before we dig in, Joe rolls up again with two bottles of wine, a Barbera for the dainty quail and an amber colored wine called “Kaplja” to enjoy with the sweetbreads. This unique single vintner created wine from Friuli (where it borders Slovenia) is both biodynamic and unfiltered, dry on the palate with a sweet scent of orange blossoms. Wine drinkers beware of controversy; you may love it or hate it.
I just have to mention here that every dish has been timed perfectly so far. The importance of great line cooks is key, and with Gabe Thompson going from prep to line, up or downstairs, I think he’s chosen line cooks of the finest breed. Next, we have two half-orders of house-made pasta. Have I mentioned yet that Tom Colicchio has come in during our din and is seated right behind us? The “Pizzoccheri” is maybe the best pasta I have ever tasted. Made with buckwheat but so light, just al dente, it is tossed with shaved brussel sprouts, potatoes, Fontina, and sage. The Tagliatelle Alla Bolognese is prepared in a very rustic style with hardly even any tomato. Joe had two reds with him of course, and I nearly yoinked the wine key out of his breast pocket so he couldn’t open any more bottles. We take a short breather outside before our most extravagant course, a hanger steak served with cauliflower and melted Taleggio with which Joe brings a sampling of a delicious rye-based beer. I absolutely love the idea of pairing our steak with beer.
With our dinner drawing to a close, I’m thinking I can just curl up in a cushy booth, close my eyes, and someone will cover me with a blanket. In these cozy surroundings and this sublime state, I feel as though I have been home all evening sitting on my couch, watching Iron Chef America. Of course, instead of watching established celebrity chefs at work I am watching a new group of rising stars. And I still get all the fun facts! Now, Joe orders two desserts for us, and I want not to care because I’m so perfectly full. But Gabe is telling me that his girlfriend is the pastry chef, so I immerse myself in her Almond Fig Crostata and Panna Cotta, while the two owners muse over the fact that Gabe keeps six different olive oils in house—one for cooking and five for garnishing. After all is said and done, I think we all really did it up right tonight, and my reasons for wanting to return involve more than the restaurant’s proximity to where I live. More, for the best quail dish I’ve had—I’ll have to taste it twice more to truly justify that opinion—for Lambrusco Bianco, for “Aperitivo” (light evening meal) Friday through Sunday from 4-6 PM, for a home away from home dining experience. The young, ambitious owners are happy with their NYC restaurant endeavor, and I think what they have created is genuinely “dell’anima,” food from the soul. Buona sorte!
Leah Viens-Gordon —Contributing Writer
Dell'anima
38 8th Avenue (@ Jane St.)
212-366-6633 www.dellanima.com
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
(All sources of information are kept confidential. If you would like to participate in ‘The inside Scoop’ go to the contact us)
This week we ventured to PRIME HOUSE owned by BR GUEST and this is what we found.
HOW BAD IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
Best I have really seen. The chef really cares.
HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
Mostly suits and some celebrities.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
Sunday brunch. Monday –Saturday 11am -12 pm.
HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
3 Dinners 2 lunches.
IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
Fairly easy, no money required.
HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Average.
WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
50/50 blend.
IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
Yes and No. he is fair.
NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK?
Negative: lots of micro managing and high turnovers.
Positive: high price points
WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE?
42 % way too much.
ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Cash per night.
IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
No
IS INSURANCE PROVIDED?
Yes
DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT?
Definitely no. it’s BR guest.
That’s all for now, tune in next week for an all new INSIDE SCOOP.
Today, Greenmarkets around the city (and an ever-expanding number of outer-borough locations) are busy, popular venues for farmers, purveyors, and shoppers alike to access fresh, local, seasonal products native to our region. Today, some 150 farmers participate in Greenmarket's programs, and, as of July, 45-50 Greenmarkets will offer local produce to Manhattan and the outer boroughs. The Greenmarket at Union Square, the biggest Greenmarket in the city, is one you shouldn’t miss.
Before Union Square was the hub of offices, stores, and restaurants it is today, many New Yorkers considered the area dangerous and uncared for. Thirty-one years ago, a city-betterment program introduced the Greenmarket there in an effort to attract business and provide city-dwellers with fresh, local produce. Now, every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from 8 AM to 6 PM, Union Square bustles with farmer and artisan vendors, as well as political activists, musicians, and religious groups.
Spring is the best time to get acquainted (or re-acquainted) with the Union Square Greenmarket. All the fields are waking up after a long winter slumber, and delicious signs of spring are in abundance at the market these days. In April, the first abundant spring crop to peek its green head is the ramp, a regional favorite whose flavor is akin to pungent garlic but resembles a scallion. Restaurants across the city are heralding the coming warmth with dishes that include various incarnations of this wild leek.
Strawberries arrive shortly thereafter—look for the particularly small and deep red ones if you don't care for the tartness of the first crop. Exceptional salads with delicate lettuce mixes are ideal this time of year, too, when tender greens are at their springtime best. Little is needed in terms of dressing, as these greens have an inherent sweetness and are tasty enough on their own.
From vegetable farmers to fish vendors and from cut flower purveyors to dairy farmers, you’ll find all this and more at the Union Square Greenmarket. For example, David Graves of Berkshire Berries makes jams new and old. He sells standby favorites like blackberry and strawberry (all with only three ingredients: fruit, sugar, and pectin), as well as less familiar flavors like ginger jelly and horseradish jelly. David is also a beekeeper, and he sells “Rooftop Honey”—small jars of honey produced by a cooperative of rooftop beekeepers within Manhattan. The cooperative’s ingenious use of urban space to create something edible for city-dwellers is almost as delicious as the honey itself. Stop by David’s stand, and he’ll tell you why he thinks cell towers are to blame for the disappearance of honeybees.
If you visit the market on a Wednesday, you might get drawn in by a blackboard displaying a psychedelic vortex with a bacon mobile (yes, like the ones over babies’ cribs!) at the center. If you, like me, are a sucker for bacon, you’ll be tempted to take home a pound of Tamarak Hollow Farm bacon. Tamarak Hollow sells pasture raised duck, lamb, and pigs. Their bacon is not “cured” because the USDA definition requires the use of sodium nitrite. Instead, it’s aged for two to three weeks before heading to market. The farm is located in the northern-most region of Vermont, near Canada, which is why this bacon is only available on Wednesdays.
One of Union Square’s perennial favorites for potted herbs—perfect for beefing up your window-box—is the Blew Family Farm. On 160 acres, the family produces grain, vegetables, herbs, and pork. The entire farm is solar-powered, a system that works so well, it generates more energy than the farm requires. Here you can buy the plant form of the popular alternative sweetener, Stevia, as well as a range of Asian and local fresh herbs.
Rick Ackerman, of Rick's Picks, makes a business out of preserving the bounty of the Greenmarket in a form that can be enjoyed year-round. All his pickled vegetables come from his fellow Greenmarket vendors, and he offers a range of tastes to choose from. At Union Square (as well as Greenmarkets in Brooklyn and Manhattan and many specialty food stores), Rick’s Picks include "Bee ‘n Beez" (turbo-charged bread and butter pickles), "Spears of Influence" (Kirby cucumber spears in a cumin-scented brine), and "Pepi Pep Peps" (pickled roasted peppers infused with their own essence). Without giving away his still-in-development recipe, Rick hopes to have a limited number of pickled ramps for sale come next spring.
With the abundance of the season, there are new items popping up for sale with every truck that pulls into Union Square. If, like me, you frequent your neighborhood Greenmarket in an outer borough, take a trip to Union Square (Wednesdays have the smallest crowds), and check out the farmers, produce, and unique vendors that make it one of the best farmer's markets in the world!
Justin Phillips, the owner of Beer Table, and his wife Tricia don’t look like very big drinkers. But as soon as they start talking to you about beer, you realize not only are they incredibly knowledgeable about all things brewsky but they can both probably drink you under the table too. Their Brooklyn bar, on 7th Avenue near 14th Street in Park Slope, celebrates its first anniversary this month.
At a time when wine bars have become ubiquitous, Beer Table is a refreshing change of pace. When you walk in, it feels like a wine bar. Three solid wooden slabs hang from the walls like Murphy beds, each seating about eight people communally. At the back of the room, a chalkboard lists the day’s draft, cask, and by-the-glass beer specials. Lines of stemware hang overhead like monkeys above a tiny kitchen. No pint glasses here.
Tricia graciously offers to taste us on any of the evening’s featured beers from which we choose a wintery Japanese draft called “Celebration ‘08” from Hitachino accented with cardamon and an Italian bottling called Cassissona brewed with cassis. The beer menu is a bit imposing for novices, with twenty-five bottled beers from all over the world ranging in size from 250 ml to 1.5 L (magnum!) and in price from $9 to $116. You will not be able to pronounce anything you order (except maybe the only domestic bottle—the “Black Ops,” a stout from Brooklyn Brewery aged in Bourbon barrels).
But don’t freak out. Ask for help. We did, and Justin promptly returned bear-hugging ten different bottles, patiently talking us through each beer, peppering his descriptions with stories of his past job as a beer importer, his travels through Europe, and insights into some of his favorite producers. One such brew-master is Jérôme Rebetz from Brasserie Des Franches-Montagnes in Switzerland, who used his winnings from a game show to follow his passion for making beer. The “Alex Le Rouge” from Jérôme’s brewery was a favorite—a dark, rich Jurassian Imperial stout brewed with tea leaves, vanilla, and black pepper. You can meet the brewer himself when he hosts an evening at Beer Table in late February. Check the website for details.
Don’t miss the opportunity to sample one of the vintage-dated bottles offered at Beer Table, like an ale from Thomas Hardy, an English barley wine bottled in 2007 that exhibits the rich nuttiness of an Amontillado sherry and, one of Justin’s favorites, the 1999 Harvest Ale from JW Lees. The aging process seems to intensify the flavors, as it would with an older wine, and the softer carbonation forces you to focus more on the complexity of flavors. Experiencing these beers will make you feel like a complete dumb ass the next time you order a Stella or Sam Adams at your local dive.
At Beer Table, they understand that beer is not a cheap alternative to wine or cocktailing. Of course, there’s a time and place to play beer pong with your frat boy buddies, but a visit to Beer table will show you what beer is meant to be without pretense. They’ll even make sure it goes in the right glass.
—Warren Peace Senior Editor
BEER TABLE
427 B 7th Avenue
(Between 14th & 15th St.)
Brooklyn, NY 11215
718-965-1196 www.beertable.com
About the Author
Warren’s feet are sore from too many years in the restaurant business. He lives in New York City where he is working on his first novel, Getting Lucky, a coming-of-age story set in the seedy underworld of Greyhound buses and late 90’s porn. He has no wife, no kids, and does not work lunch.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
(All sources of information are kept confidential. If you would like to participate in ‘The Inside Scoop’ go to the contact us)
HOW BAD IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
The family meal is actually very good, at times bordering on excellent. HOW’S THE CLIENTELE?
Very diverse. From up-scale to urban.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
4pm to 4am. 12 -14 hr shifts. HOW MANY LUNCH/BRUNCH SHIFTS ARE REQUIRED IN A WEEK?
No brunch/lunch shifts. Only dinner
IS IT EASY TO TRADE SHIFTS AMONGST CO-WORKERS WITHOUT INVOLVING MANAGEMENT? IS MONEY EVER EXCHANGED TO GET A SHIFT(S) COVERED?
Easy. No money is ever exchanged. HOW IS THE SIDEWORK?
Reasonable WHAT IS THE STAFF LIKE?
(CAREER PEOPLE? ARTISTS? OR A BLEND OF THE TWO?)
Mostly Artist IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR?
Not only is he a great guy, he is also the easiest chef I have ever worked for. NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK? Positive: Three-day workweek. Negative: long and intense shifts. WHAT IS THE TIP OUT SYSTEM? WHAT IS THE TIP OUT PERCENTAGE?
Pooled house, cash tip out,, bartenders keep their cash. ARE TIPS PAID IN CASH OR A WEEKLY CHECK?
Tips are paid in cash, daily IS TAKE HOME CASH EXCELLENT, GOOD, OK OR CRAPY?
Excellent
Waiters make over $ 1300
Bussers make over $ 800 IS MANAGEMENT PART OF THE TIP OUT?
No IS INSURANCE PROVIDED?
No DO YOU GET A SHIFT DRINK AT THE END OF THE NIGHT? Yes. Unlimited beer from tap, some well drinks.
That’s all for now, tune in next week for an all new INSIDE SCOOP.
Sometimes it's good, most of the time it's bad. Whatever it is, you have to eat it. The Staff Meal. Tune in to Shiftdrink to find out how waitstaff around the city are being fed and send us pictures of your favorite or most repulsive family meals
Sometimes it's good, most of the time it's bad. Whatever it is, you have to eat it. The Staff Meal. Tune in to Shiftdrink to find out how waitstaff around the city are being fed and send us pictures of your favorite or most repulsive family meals
The 2-weeks of winter restaurant week’ kick off this Sunday, the 18th to 30th of this month. Top restaurants all over the city will be serving up 3-course lunches and dinners for $24.07 and $35, respectively. I for one, am having mixed feeling about it, because just like David chang, I hate to be busy while making minimum cash, running around serving well done food, but with this economy I’m willing to work extra shifts in order to make ends meet.
The 2-weeks of winter restaurant week’ kick off this Sunday, the 18th to 30th of this month. Top restaurants all over the city will be serving up 3-course lunches and dinners for $24.07 and $35, respectively. I for one, am having mixed feeling about it, because just like David chang, I hate to be busy while making minimum cash, running around serving well done food, but with this economy I’m willing to work extra shifts in order to make ends meet. Restaurant week is also an opportunity to experience top tier restaurants without breaking the bank. So let’s all play our part in saving the economy and visit our fellow shiftdrinkers and spend a buck or two. You might catch us at the following places,
• Del posto
• Eleven Madison
• Olana
• Gorham bar and grill
• Megu midtown
• Palm steak house
• Molyvos
• Matsugen
• Union square café
• August
Untill then, your table is waiting.
About the Author
If Winston is not home babysitting, he is usually either at the Restaurant serving Peking Duck or at Shiftdrink’s offices screening endless You Tube videos. With the emergence of the Interent, Winston combines his zeal for entrepreneurship and fourteen years of experience in food service to put together the team behind Shifdrink. Winston loves to play with his daughter, snowboard, and come up with new exciting recipes for sweet Italian sausages, Chinese noodles, and Scotch.
THE SHELLS consists of THREE young ladies: Carrie Welling (23), Jessi Rae Waltz (21), and Melanie Klaja (26). These three angels sing intricate harmonies, while telling soulful stories of love, longing, life and laughter. With Melanie on second rhythm guitar, they are backed Jason Knoblach, Christine Brown, Shawn Burns, Scott Stein and Noah Penn. THE SHELLS were formed in New York City, where they've been touring for a year in area venues such as The Bitter End, The Cutting Room, The Living Room, Pianos, Coda, Arlene's Grocery, CB's Gallery, Rockwood Music Hall, and Starving Artist's Gallery. Their plan is not only to venture into bigger venues in the city, but also to local colleges, cafes, theaters, bars, lounges, and festivals within the tristate area, the country, and hopefully the world.
THE SHELLS consists of THREE young ladies: Carrie Welling (23), Jessi Rae Waltz (21), and Melanie Klaja (26). These three angels sing intricate harmonies, while telling soulful stories of love, longing, life, and laughter. With Melanie on second rhythm guitar, they are backed Jason Knoblach, Christine Brown, Shawn Burns, Scott Stein and Noah Penn. THE SHELLS were formed in New York City, where they've been touring for a year in area venues such as The Bitter End, The Cutting Room, The Living Room, Pianos, Coda, Arlene's Grocery, CB's Gallery, Rockwood Music Hall, and Starving Artist's Gallery. Their plan is not only to venture into bigger venues in the city, but also to local colleges, cafes, theaters, bars, lounges, and festivals within the tristate area, the country, and hopefully the world.
For years, Scott Bryan ran the disciplined kitchen at Veritas, producing some of the city’s most delicious food and earning three stars from the New York Times. In her review, Ruth Reichl praised Bryan’s simple cooking but observed, “at Veritas, the wine is more important than the food.” In some ways, his food never received the credit it was due since it was always cast in a supporting role to the wine cellar. When Chef Bryan left New York in 2007 to guest-chef for three months at a restaurant called 2941 near Washington D.C., it was with little fanfare. Well Bryan has quietly returned to New York—hopefully for good—as the executive chef at Apiary on 3rd Avenue between 10th and 11th Streets in the East Village. It’s a surprising career move for Bryan, a humble operation seemingly below a chef of his ilk. But his work here shows his versatility and sensitivity to the changing climate for restaurants. He and Apiary’s managing partner Jenny Moon understand that the days of cigar smoking and guzzling rare Bordeaux are behind us (at least for the moment). Apiary is the poor man’s Veritas. 
Though nowhere near the gargantuan collection of Chef Bryan’s former employer, Apiary still has an affinity for wine. It offers almost twenty wines by the glass including a flight of three “blind-tasted” wines for $15. Guess the wines correctly and you’ll receive a bonus pour on the house! Monday is “no-corkage” night at Apiary and it seems to have gained traction with oenophiles and industry types. The restaurant’s gregarious beverage director, Brett Feore, will be happy to introduce you to one of his seasonal specialty cocktails like the “Gin ‘N Juice” (gin, Aperol, and blood orange juice). He may even lay his Christopher Walken impersonation on you as he did while decanting the 1998 Smith Haut-Lafitte we brought on a recent visit. Brett looks more hit man than wine-guy.
Once you get the wine out of the way you can turn your attention to Apiary’s simple menu. The restaurant offers a $35 prix-fixe menu Sunday through Thursday but with limited options. Of the ten or so a la carte appetizers, a chunk of braised pork belly served on a pedestal of lentils with a velvety poached egg and shaved pecorino stood out as did an ample slice of raw hamachi with fresh hearts of palm and avocado.
Chinese New Year is also known as the spring festival, because this marks the beginning of the spring, the rebirth of the earth, and the holiday is celebrated over a two-week period.
Everyone has an opinion about what constitutes good service. A recent article published in the New York Times hailed “100 Things Restaurant Staffers Should Never Do.” In the hospitality industry, we are under constant scrutiny often by people who have no business evaluating our competence. We have rigid rules we must live by in hospitality while next to nothing is expected of those we serve. So, why has no one ever considered a handbook for those who dine out? Isn’t there a certain level of decorum and respect those of us who work in restaurants should be entitled to? We think there is, and we offer this list of Holy Commandments to live by whenever you dine out. If you follow our guidelines below, you will get better service. Most likely better than you deserve. God speed. (click read more to see list)
No one knows better where to find good drinks and cool bars than the people who work in them. So, the staff at Shiftdrink has scoured the city to bring you the finest cocktails and inside information on the staff behind the scenes at the city’s hottest venues. Introducing: 
THE DESERT ROSE
Putting your resume together is no easy task. For most people, putting their experience into marketable terms can be a stumbling block filled with anxiety and procrastination. Restaurant resumes can be even more stressful since work experience is less easily described as with conventional jobs. Early in your restaurant career, you may worry that you don’t have enough experience to interest potential employers and your resume might expose your weakness rather than showcase your strength. Even if you are comfortable in your current job situation you should always have a resume prepared because, as you now, all it takes is a new chef or manager to turn your comfort into agony. Not to worry, though, we talked to our peers in management and have some ideas on how you can keep your resume freshly starched like your work shirt:
Scientists only need two things to begin developing Synthenol, government backing and an investor to front the money. Snythenol might be worth it- what could be better than controlled intoxication without the nasty side effects?
All of us have our favorite watering hole for winding down after a shift. It’s usually a place where you order a simple drink like a whiskey rocks or fizzy draft beer and the guy pouring the drinks is just about as excited to make it for you as he is when he’s cleaning up some poor NYU student’s puke just outside the bathroom door. Maybe it’s just me, but sometimes after a long night of giving other people the sweet treatment or that perfect dining experience, I really enjoy when someone else wants to give me exactly what I’m craving. Some nights that just might be an Irish whiskey with ice. Other nights it could be an effervescent gin drink made with strawberries and mint scented with fresh vanilla bean, and there is only one place I know I can get that until 4 A.M. (and food!) and that’s 
The three owners make each visit to this bar unique: Kenny, the Irish jock who grew up in bars and takes his whiskey with his muscle milk; Abdul, a fast and flamboyant Moroccan who plays the rings on his fingers to signify his mood; and Michael, papa bear, who brings in his sweet baby Eveline for everyone to ogle and to make the place feel even more homey than it already does. They are an unlikely trio, but to put it simply, Michael explains, “We were bartenders with and around each other for many years. When it came time to open our own place we looked around and tried to find the people we knew the best and trusted the most and liked what they did the most, so we gravitated towards each other.” 
DO YOU HAVE A SIGNATURE COCKTAIL?
It’s takes me about an hour to commute to work (three transfers), about the same amount of time I need to get my self centered before my shift. NYC is a fast-paced city and the commute can easily agitate and frustrate me especially if one of my connections is not on schedule, which happens more often than not. I also tend to be very stressed-out with a growing family that depends on me, a fairly new business venture that is barley hanging on, and every night, instead of enjoying the company of my loved ones, I get to spend the evening with loud techno/house music blaring serving foreigners from Brussels and Brazil who think 5-9% is an excellent tip.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
From its opening moments, Evident challenges traditional definitions of the female singer-songwriter album, with cutting-edge organic and electronic elements that underscore the defiance delivered in Giges' haunting vocals ("Don't ask why I have got my hat pulled down over my eyes/Don't ask why I confessed those things to you the other night, 'Silent I Will Be'"). Almost daring the listener to discover exactly how much she is willing to disclose, Evident unfolds as the refined confession of a powerful woman who is prepared to go as far as her audience can ask ("Pry resistance out of me/I'm slipping slow on your slope, 'Could It Be You'").
IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR? 
On Halloween, all SUSHISAMBA locations will feature a spooktacular dessert special and a colorful COSPLAY cocktail.
At SUSHISAMBA park in New York City, fully costumed (head to toe) guests can enter for a chance to win a $200 gift certificate to SUSHISAMBA. Two runners-up will receive a $100 gift certificate. All particiants will be photographed and a winner will be notified by phone/email within the week following Halloween.
Winemaker Russell Hearn began his career as an apprentice at the age of 16, in his homeland of Australia. He is a dedicated, studious, hands-on winemaker, and has been with Pellegrini Vineyards since its establishment in 1991
Their tasting room is open 7 days a weeks through out the year, with the exception of Christmas Day, New Years Day, Easter and Thanksgiving.Private Vintner's Tastings are available in Pellegrini Vineyards' Vintner's Room overlooking the Estate's Vineyards for $25 per person. 
The tasting fee entails a comprehensive overview and tasting of Pellegrini's current offerings, as well as select samplings from the Pellegrini Library of exclusive wines.Private Group Tours of the vineyards, fermentation and tank room as well as aging cellar are available for $10 per person for groups of 6 or more.
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE BUSINESS?
I did it. I asked to speak with the manager. I know. I feel like such a scumbag. The shame is weighing on me like a rack of glasses. Help me, Danny Meyer! I’ve burnt sage to exorcise the demons of betrayal. How could I be capable of such a treasonous act? I broke the code of the International Brotherhood Of Those Who Sling Hash: We don’t complain about service. We always say please and thank you. We leave twenty percent. And, we… never… ever… call over the manager.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. 
PARK BAR - Situated in the nexus of the Union Square restaurant scene, Park Bar is a favorite watering hole for waitstaff who need a bar open late that isn’t a total dump. Dimly lit and tightly-quartered, Park Bar is a cozy place to vent about that manager you can’t stand. Just make sure he/she isn’t there too before you start bitching. 
EMPLOYEES ONLY - The cat’s been out of the bag for a long time at Employees Only, a popular destination for industry when it opened in 2003. A team of five barkeeps serious about booze opened the bar long before mixology became trendy. Even the owners admit that it’s hard to cater to insiders now that they are so popular. Stay away on weekends and make sure you stick around for the chicken soup before they kick you out at 4 AM.
8th STREET WINE CELLAR - Two former Union Square café barmen targeted industry clientele from the moment they opened this underground joint two years ago. It’s a wine bar, sure, but with a deep bench of hard spirits. No rowdy music or noise will distract you from bonding with your busboys or hitting on that hot hostess. Sometimes it seems almost too serene when it’s 3 AM and you’ve just finished your third giant gin martini, but at that point the soundtrack doesn’t really matter anymore.
DBA - This a true barfly’s bar. Known for it’s extensive selections of craft beers (over 250 varietes), DBA also offers an exhaustive list of spirits. You’ll find yourself staring at the giant chalkboard drink menu overhead unable to commit to a decision. There’s not much else to do here but drink, so you better order soon. But after a closing shift on a dead night, it’s a great place to drown your sorrows with some familiar faces.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
IS THE CHEF TOUGH TO WORK FOR? 
Finding a good bar, and even better a great bartender is no easy task, but at Shiftdrink we are committed to exploring the city in search of “Nirvana” leaving no bar untouched and hopefully along the way making new friends. Stumbling around the Columbus Circle area recently we came across 
The weirdest cocktail by far was “The Bazooka” (13 bucks), a vodka-based confection shaken and served up with house-made bubble gum cordial and lime juice. You’ll definitely giggle when you taste it. If you stick around for a nightcap, taste the incredible house-made infused spirits including a cognac flavored with crushed biscotti, miso-butterscotch infused bourbon, and curried rum (16 bucks for a flight of three). The only flop was the selection of “Solid Cocktails,” three “shots” served in solid form. The meager plate consisted of absinthe gummy bears, watermelon cubes soaked in vodka, and a miniature cereal bowl filled with white Russian and cocoa pebbles. It was a conversation piece, but a total gyp for 12 bucks.
MORELLO PISCO SOUR
NEDERBURG “LYRIC” South Africa, 2009 - Be the first on your block to have a wine from the 2009 vintage with this mouthwatering white from Romanian cellarmaster Razvan Macici. (South Africa’s growing season ends in mid-February). “Lyric” blends Sauvignon (56%) and Chenin Blanc (23%) with Chardonnay (21%) grapes grown along the Western Cape and delivers flavors of tart stone fruit with zippy acidity reminiscent of a refreshing Sancerre or Vouvray. Suggested pairing: Pasta salads, shrimp cocktail, or finger sandwiches.
CHATEÂU DE CAMPUGET “Costières de Nîmes” Côte du Rhône, 2008 - We love this delicious and affordable Rhone rose from Chateâu de Campuget. Made from Syrah (70%) and Grenache (30%) grapes grown in the Costières de Nîmes, once a riverbed for the Rhone, the wine exhibits a distinct terroir. The stony soil lends the wine mineral notes beneath the early season strawberry flavors and soft floral aromatics. Suggested Pairing: Cheese and paté, salami, or goat cheese salad.
BODEGA ENRIQUE FOSTER “Ique” Mendoza, 2007 – Malbec has surged in popularity in recent years as consumers eschew mainstream grapes in favor of more exotic offerings. The “Ique” (the winemaker’s nickname) is classic Malbec with plump, dark berry flavors and notes of char and gaminess that cry out for juicy meat. The winery’s advanced “gravity flow” system eliminates the need to pump wine through each stage of the process, and the wine is aged without the intrusion of oak. Suggested Pairing: Italian sausages, dry-rubbed ribs, or sirloin steaks. 
The ambiance is the biggest drawback to Clo, but I noticed the clientele—mostly women—seemed not to mind. By 7 PM, most of the stools along the 20-foot table were filled. It’s a great place to meet after work to catch up on the day’s gossip or a fun first date where the adventure of serving yourself could distract from the awkwardness. For those of us who work in restaurant biz, well… I guess you could say it’s just like being a kid in a candy store.
Tune in to Shiftdrink to find out how waitstaff around the city are being fed and
pictures of your favorite or most repulsive family meals.
New Yorkers are getting 'Cued up this weekend for BBQ from all over the country at the 7th Annual Big Apple Barbecue Block Party in Madison Square Park. We braved the rain on Saturday to scope it out and let y'all know what's cookin'. Once we finally got through the long lines, we enjoyed a delicious Pulled Pork Sandwich with coleslaw from 
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The idea behind ‘The Inside Scoop’ is to bring those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
Over 100 wineries will pour the top wines served in America’s best restaurants, paired with specialties from some of NYC’s most esteemed chefs. A series of intimate, seated retrospective tastings will take place throughout the day. 
Feel free to
of your staff meals, no matter how gnarly or beautiful it may be. All postings are kept completely anonymous.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
NAME BOTH A POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ASPECT ABOUT WHERE YOU WORK? 
Ever wanted to own a piece of a restaurant but didn't have the bankroll to make it a reality? Well, now you can own shares of the reservation system used on over 9,000 restaurants across the country, 
>Most of us have felt like we have sold our souls to some corporate entity at one time or another. I’ve waitressed at two different corporate restaurants for nearly five years altogether. Ouch. Sure, that first gig taught me the value of teamwork and how to make a cappuccino. It also gave me an obsessive-compulsive disorder for table manicuring and open service. But three and a half years of being ranked on my positive mental attitude pretty much started getting on my nerves, so I sought out a job that I thought would afford more freedom of character. Unfortunately, I re-sold my soul to a mega-Asian-bistro. Big, huge mistake. One of the worst years of my life.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
THE OAXACA OLD FASHIONED 
HOW IS THE FAMILY MEAL?
Expectations of service, too, have risen astronomically, resulting in a dramatic spike in heartache for waitpersons. And thanks to the proliferation of websites such as E-gullet and Chowhound, foodies pollute the blogosphere with their opinions about restaurant experiences and chew the fat about food culture. Things have gotten out of hand. And someone has to do something. Here, I have composed a short guide to help you identify the threat. Early detection is crucial. Know your enemy. If you come prepared, I guarantee they will not ruin your night.
Cabrito’s resident mixologist, Allen Katz, curates a list of over forty tequilas, ten mezcals, and a smart roster of mostly Mexican-themed cocktails like the “Sandia” (mezcal, watermelon, and Campari), which tasted a little too much like a watermelon Jolly Rancher. We preferred the “Bee’s Knees,” a blend of London dry gin, fresh citrus, peach honey syrup, and peach bitters. Despite the effort placed into its specialty drinks, Kwame says Cabrito still serves mostly margaritas. We’ll admit, we kinda wanted one. If you get hungry, fire up an order of creamy guacamole or finish with some homemade churros and chocolate. We were too scared to order baby goat (“cabrito” in Spanish). Maybe next time.
What’s your biggest pet peeve behind the bar?
Do you have a signature cocktail? If so, do you mind sharing it with us?
You’re probably frantically rifling through your records right now, trying to get your taxes filed before the dreaded April 15th deadline. Waiters who work at cash-in-hand restaurants are usually frantically working to cover their chunky tax bill, others more fortunate have been taxed heavily year round and expect beaucoup refunds. Whatever side you are on, here are a five, count ‘em five, helpful hints from your friends at Shiftdrink to keep Uncle Sam off your back. Our advice: Don’t f*ck with Sammy. He can be a big prick when he thinks you owe him some money:
A “campo,” in Italian, is a field or place where local people can gather. Campo, on Broadway and 112th Street, is also a gathering place but geared toward a different kind of local.When you approach the restaurant, a large outdoor seating area tempts you to stay outdoors, and, on a nice day, I know I would. May I suggest, though, that you venture inside at least for a moment? Otherwise you might miss the gorgeous tin ceiling, the fireplace and faux farmhouse door that frame an eclectic variety of antique chandeliers. You’d also miss the walnut wine cabinet and the central farmhouse table where you can sit communally with eleven of your nearest and dearest.
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We love that sad, lonely banana in the background, too. Obviously good nutrition for their staff is a priority.
You asked us for it, so we had to deliver. The Inside Scoop brings those burning questions that we all have about other establishments to light. Team Shiftdrink put their necks on the line so you could have the most up-to-date information available. Dig in while it’s still fresh…
.If you're ever in the neighborhood, stop in and order the Adobo in Chicken or the Baby Back Ribs—you can't go wrong with either of these two popular dishes. Amy's cookbook, *Memories of Philippine Kitchens*, is now available so if you fall in love with the food and want to try to replicate the fabulous dishes at home, we challenge you to try.
- Water
Sake & Temperature
During these cold and shitty months of winter, I pretty much never want to leave my house. On the rare occasion that I do or I get hungry, I don’t want to walk more than a block or two. The wind on 14th Street is bitter and unforgiving. I’m usually home eating a made-to-order salad from Westside Market across the street, or at my neighbor Liz’s apartment on 16th where she is making dinner for us after a brisk jaunt to Chelsea Market. If we are not feeling quite so lazy, we venture out to a small West Village spot near our apartments. When Shiftdrink invited me to dine at 
Finally, with Dana’s input we place our order, and Joe offers to pair wines. First course: Bruschetta, presented with the toasted bread drizzled with oil and its “topping” in a dish on the side. Our spread is of cannelini beans, preserved lemon, the perfect amount of garlic, parsley, and a healthy dash of paprika. Wow. To accompany it, we are served a viscous Sauvignon from Friuli with a discernable pineapple flavor. Next comes a juicy grapefruit salad with fennel and pistachios, which Joe pairs with a rare and special wine from right below the tiny peak of Mont Blanc in the Valle d’Aoste (where Italy borders France). These Prié Blanc vines are not grafted on American rootstock (pre-phylloxera), average about a century old, and grow very low to the ground in the time-honored “pergola bassa” style.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
Today, Greenmarkets around the city (and an ever-expanding number of outer-borough locations) are busy, popular venues for farmers, purveyors, and shoppers alike to access fresh, local, seasonal products native to our region. Today, some 150 farmers participate in Greenmarket's programs, and, as of July, 45-50 Greenmarkets will offer local produce to Manhattan and the outer boroughs. The Greenmarket at Union Square, the biggest Greenmarket in the city, is one you shouldn’t miss.
WHAT ARE THE HOURS OF THE RESTAURANT? HOW LONG IS A TYPICAL DINNER SHIFT?
The 2-weeks of 
